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Shooting stars of spring
I love those first shoots of spring, whether it’s the first chives to push out of the frosty ground or the shoots of asparagus that appear a bit later, after the frost has gone.
Not only are they a
Jude’s Kitchen JUDIE STEEVES
promise of summer and warmer weather ahead – to the benefit of both crops and people’s comfort – but also because they taste so delectable.
There’s little that’s so delicately-flavoured as sprouts; baby
vegetables – before they begin to get crunchy, tough and then woody. I’m thinking of tiny carrots, green onions, fresh baby peas, salad turnips, young greens of any sort, little beans, nugget potatoes. Yum. And, this is the time of year herbs are sprouting their young
green leaves, offering to tantalize your taste buds and enhance the flavour of any dish you decide to prepare. Think chives, parsley, tarragon, oregano, thyme, mint, sage, rosemary and annual herbs such as dill and cilantro which pop up unplanned all over my vegetable garden each spring. Young almost-anything is lovely eaten raw (not so much potatoes...), and this is the time of year you can indulge yourself in those spring flavours, paired with lamb, chicken, seafood, beef and pork, prepared simply so their robust flavours shine through, in contrast to the side dish delicacies from the early garden. This province has such agricultural diversity that we could
probably feed ourselves healthy, nutritious meals most of the year without importing anything. That is, as long as you’re prepared to do without coffee and chocolate! A few exotic spices make eating more exciting, too. Try cooking your entire Easter repast with local, BC products
and you’ll be surprised at how well you can do. My biggest issue would come with spices, I think, but I guess citrus would cause me some problems, too. The bottom line,though, is we can largely feed ourselves with locally produced food because of our diverse agricultural sector – and in the process we not only help our neighbours economically, but also ourselves nutritionally with fresh products that haven’t been picked or packed half a world away and shipped to us at great cost to our planet. Shop and eat local. Choose basic, local foods and make your
own simple meals from scratch. It’s so much tastier, too. You could even have a glass of fine local wine with your meal to celebrate.
COUNTRY LIFE IN BC • APRIL 2019
SHERRIED COD WITH HERBS & ASPARAGUS A delicious white sauce makes cod and asparagus the perfect pairing. JUDIE STEEVES PHOTO
This fish dish yearns for asparagus season. The low-in-fat but scrumptious sauce is delicious over both the fish and that favourite spring sprout. Serve over brown and wild rice pilaf, with asparagus alongside. Use whole milk if you prefer it richer.
1.5 lb. (700 g) cod or snapper 3 whole cloves
2 tbsp. (30 g) flour 2 tbsp. (30 g) sherry
1 1/2 c. (375 g) skim milk 6 whole peppercorns
sprig or three of fresh dill, thyme or rosemary 1/2 tsp. (2 ml) salt 3 green onions
2 tbsp. (30 g) butter
freshly ground black pepper chopped fresh chives, to garnish
• Poach pieces of cod or snapper fillet in the mixture of milk, cloves, peppercorns, salt and a sprig of fresh herb such as dill, thyme or rosemary. • Simmer for just a few minutes, until the thickest piece of the fish flakes easily. Lift fish out of the poaching liquid and put on a serving dish in a warm place while making the sauce.
• Meanwhile, chop green onions. • I make the sauce in the microwave, but it can be done on the stovetop. Melt butter and cook chopped green onion for a few minutes. Stir in flour and cook, then add the hot poaching liquid slowly, whisking constantly, to make a thick white sauce. • Season with salt and pepper, then add the sherry, stirring in well. Pour over fish in serving dish and garnish with a few fresh chives. Serves 4.
EASTER LAMB, STUFFED AND ROLLED
The stuffing is a combination of flavours that are excellent with the lamb and it looks very festive when it comes out of the oven. Because the bulgur is less rich than a bread base, it’s a good choice for a lamb stuffing since the meat is so rich and flavourful. A delicious change from ham for an Easter dinner.
2 lb. (1 kg) boneless lamb
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Marinade: 2 tbsp. (30 ml) dry white wine 1 lemon’s rind & juice 1/2 tsp. (3 ml) thyme 2 garlic cloves
Stuffing: 1/2 c. (125 ml) bulgur wheat 4 dried apricots
1 tbsp. (15 ml) fresh mint Email
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1 tbsp. (15 ml) olive oil 1 tsp. (5 ml) tarragon
1/2 tsp. (3 ml) black pepper 2 c. (500 ml) spinach
2 oz. (57 g) Camembert cheese 1/2 tsp. (3 ml) sea salt
• Trim fat from the lamb except from the end, which will not be rolled up inside. (I used a shoulder but a half leg would be excellent.)
• Zest the lemon rind, juice it and mince the zest and the garlic. • Combine all marinade ingredients and turn the boneless lamb roast about in the marinade so it’s completely glazed with it. Refrigerate overnight or for as long as possible the day of cooking, turning occasionally.
• Combine bulgur with a cup of water and simmer on low for about 15 minutes. • Finely chop fresh spinach, dried apricots, Camembert and fresh mint. • Remove bulgur from heat and immediately add pieces of Camembert, mixing so it melts into the grain.
• Add remaining ingredients and mix well. • Lay lamb out on wax paper and spread stuffing all over the meat. Roll up and secure with a skewer or two, or tie with butcher’s twine. • Set in a roasting pan and drizzle with the remaining marinade, if there’s any left. • Roast in a 350° F oven for about 25 minutes to the pound. • Slice into rounds and arrange the pinwheels on a serving platter. Serves 4 to 6.
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