PUMP’d by tony reverditto
During the drive to PUMP, I anticipated it would be yet an- other touch of class designed by Ken Todd and Lisa Vander- pump, gently sprinkled onto a long neglected corner in West Hollywood. I was right. These two entrepreneurs are the real deal; genuine, personable and I couldn’t be more impressed with their latest endeavor. From the moment of arrival, my impression of the setting was romantic, sexy and whimsical. It felt like the restaurant had been there for many years, yet it was just over a month old.
PUMP opened at 6 p.m. and my dining companion and I were seated near
the entrance, so we enjoyed watching the guests arrive and fill the outside dining area. We were immediately greeted by our handsome server, Derek Allen Watson, an actor who recently moved from New York in order to pur- sue a career in Hollywood. That said, he took our cocktail order. My dining companion went for the Summerland Chardonnay and I ordered from the menu’s clever list of “Pumptails,” choosing the Pumpagranite Margarita, consisting of Tapatio Blanco tequila, orange liqueur, tres agaves organic, pomegranate liqueur and fresh lime, which was luscious. Our appetizers arrived and like the restaurant, had a sexy, luscious
vibe; Ahi Tuna Tartare, tossed in a ginger-chive dressing, with heirloom tomatoes, sesame oil, red chili flakes and layered with a mango, avocado and pomegranate pico, was a literal flavor explosion. Next up, was Papaya, Shrimp & Crab; a fresh papaya half filled with decadent shrimp and crab salad, tossed with chives and heirloom tomatoes in a light aioli, dusted with Spanish paprika and toasted pistachios—eating it was a “sexy little dance.” The menu had a fabulous array of salads, but we wanted to cleanse our pal- ate with PUMP’s White Anchovy Caesar Salad, so fresh and tasty. I went on
72 RAGE monthly | JULY 2014 RAGE monthly
to order the Big Pinky, another signature cocktail with Vanderpump Vodka, a lime and mint muddle, with cranberry juice and club soda. The title is taken from Lisa’s nickname, though not the “big” part; she is quite petite in person. Chef Penny Davidi, a USFOODS culinary specialist has collaborated beau-
tifully with Lisa on the menu. As we selected our entrées, I appreciated the thoughtful choices available, not overly complicated by too many options. My companion ordered the Lobster and Asparagus Fiori; flower-shaped pasta, tossed in spicy white wine sauce with asparagus, garlic, red onion and fresh radicchio. I sampled the dish and enjoyed its originality, tied together in a very pleasing way. I ordered the Filet Mignon Tagliata; seared and sliced filet, with crispy leeks, a wasabi cauliflower mash and braised red cabbage, a wickedly divine combination.
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