RIGGING 1-2-3
C ULTIMATE The
ANYON RIG
1] With the raft and floor soft blown we aligned the centering tabs. With wet and soapy rope we began sew- ing the floor to the raft. After a few stitches we pulled it tight, cinching it together.
2] We liked the modular NRS frame for its versatility. This was the first build, so we set everything up loosely until we knew were we wanted it.
3] We found the center of the frame to mount the oar stands. We positioned the seat and foot bar, and placed the crossbars working our way toward the bow and stern.
4] We used contact cement to stick a one-inch-thick foam pad to the top of our dry box. This would be our row- ing seat. We positioned it so that it is accessible from the center of the raft with the lid opening away from the guide area.
5] Before we attached the Magnum blades to the Cataract SGG shafts, we slid on the oar sleeves and oar stops. We left them loose until we had them in the oarlocks and sized up the oars.
6] To mount our Yeti Tundra 110 cooler, we used an NRS adjustable cooler mount. Suspending gear protects the floor and results in better raft perfor- mance.
7] To keep our dry bags off the floor, we slung an NRS cargo platform in the stern. Did you notice our rookie move? I had to switch the straps—you want to be able to tighten all your straps on the fly. Note the welded brackets on the dry box allowing it to hang from the cross members.
8] These are Jeff’s oarlocks, which we used here with our Cataract oars. They drop through the mounts and are at- tached with a flat washer, spring and split ring. Our much stronger Atomic oarlocks and lynch pins didn’t do us much good sitting forgotten on my desk.
9] Sawyer’s SquareTop Dynelites, standard with rope wrap and a rubber oar stop, matched with their premium threaded Cobra oarlocks.
10] We realized that you simply can’t have enough of these babies. We used a half dozen 1-foot, 2-foot and 4-foot
3 6 2 1 4
5
36 RAPID EARLY SUMMER 2012
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