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WI L D E R N E S S IN THE HE A RT OF CO T T A GE CO U N T R Y : THE UPPER GIBSON RIVER
Ontario’s Muskoka region is a breathtaking landscape of windswept pines, imposing rocky knolls and countless lakes, rivers and streams. The area can be a paddler’s paradise if you don’t mind sharing your trip with power boats, cottagers and long weekend revelers. While it’s true that many Muskoka routes are dotted with millionaire’s sum- mer retreats or choked with boat traffic, one can still escape to a few secluded regions where peace and solitude await. The Severn River Conservation Reserve near Bala is one such re- gion and it contains one of my favorite Muskoka canoe routes; the Upper Gibson River loop. This large tract of land protects the upper reaches of the Gibson River and is dotted with numerous long, finger- like lakes. The only development you will find in this area are a few remote hunt camps and a handful of perfect campsites. The journey begins at the Nile Mile Lake Marina located seven
kilometers south of the quaint town of Torrance. On our explor- atory trip to the area, my father and I arrived at the marina by 9 a.m. on a late August Saturday and sure enough, the public lot was completely full. Thankfully, you can spend a few dollars and park your vehicle at the marina. Waving goodbye to the marina attendant, we soon found ourselves gliding across the placid waters of Nine Mile Lake. The southern reaches of this elongated lake are encom- passed by typical Muskoka cottage development, while the northern reaches are comprised of crown land. Our route would see us paddle southeast towards the inlet of the Gibson River. Once you reach the Gibson, you leave the cottage traffic behind and begin a scenic paddle through extensive wetlands and lush, vegetated shorelines. Heading downriver, we quickly lifted over a small dam and entered
a narrow stretch blocked by several beaver dams. In higher water, this section could be easily paddled with minimal difficulty, but a bit of hard work is required when the levels drop. As we found ourselves traversing the route in late August of a dry year, we resorted to lining the canoe through a few tight sections where the river was reduced to a trickle.
The Gibson gradually widened as we paddled downstream towards
Bridge Rapids, a rock garden requiring an easy liftover. When levels are higher, you may be able to run the set or opt to take a short 20-meter portage on river left. As we paddled further downriver, we were startled by a deafening clap of thunder. Quickening our pace, we hastily portaged past another parched rapid and headed out across a small pond towards the Beaver Dam Falls portage. Shim- mering forks of lightning danced across the horizon and within a few short moments, the full brunt of the storm was upon us. Reaching the portage landing, we jumped out of our canoe and sought shelter in the woods. As the rains pelted down with ferocity, we reassured ourselves that this was merely a brief summer storm as the pre-trip forecast had indicated a weekend of sunny skies. Rain was an unwel- come occurrence, especially on this trip, as I had forgotten to pack my waterproof rain pants; a rookie mistake. I was forced to make due with a combination of my rain jacket and a bathing suit. The electrical storm eventually abated, but the rain persisted as we
pressed onwards towards Woodland Lake. The short portage around Double Duty Rapids proved slippery and challenging in the rainy conditions but, as we entered Woodland Lake, the rains finally gave way to a thick blanket of fog.
PHOTO: BRAD JENNINGS
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