12 MADEIRA


Colombo still in love with Madeira


after 60 years... ... but he isn’t by any means the only one


H


E IS A sub tropical island hotel's longest standing guest who arrived almost 60 years ago, liked what he saw and is still in residence.


Fellow guests with an artistic flare have even drawn pictures of him in the visitors' book.


He is Colombo, a giant tortoise who wanders around the lush grounds of a former 18th century manor house on this enchanting Atlantic island.


Many other visitors, first arriving on cruise ships, have been so captivated that they've flown back time and again from the UK to enjoy a temperate year round climate, exotic flora and stunning coastal and mountainous scenery.


This island is, of course, Madeira and Colombo's home and formerly that of England's Napoleonic Wars General William Beresford, is the small and exclusive Quinta Jardins Do Lago Hotel overlooking the capital Funchal.


We arrived here on a Monday in time for lunch by the pool and spent the rest of the day chilling out and wandering around the exotic grounds which have over 600 species of plants.


We'd only just set out to walk to the harbour the following morning when we met a crocodile of children on their way up to the hotel's vegetable garden to learn about herbs. Continuing our descent, latterly through quaint and narrow streets, we reached Funchal's wide and bustling promenade where we basked in the holiday atmosphere along with crowds of visitors just landed from the three gleaming white cruise ships towering over the harbour.


My wife Jenny was tempted into a small boutique displaying attractive ceramics at very reasonable prices which I said had probably been made in China!


My verbal indiscretion was seized upon immediately by Claudia, the young and enthusiastic owner who assured us that all her wares were made in Portugal! Since the country joined the EU in 1980, volcanic and mountainous Madeira has benefitted substantially from massive investment in new roads and, more importantly, tunnels which have greatly improved accessibility for islanders and


By NIGEL HEATH tourists alike.


We spent that afternoon on a Funchal 'must do' experience, namely a guided tour of Blandy's centuries old lodge where the world famous Madeira wine is produced. Back in those far off days when barrels of Madeira were exported to British India it was discovered that the wine improved on its voyage through the tropics so exposure to heat is now part of the maturing process, we learned.


Steeply sloping vine covered terraces together with thousands of banana plants, whose fruit is exported to mainland Portugal, were much in evidence as we left Funchal on a small group bus tour the following morning. Climbing ever higher through wooded areas of pine and eucalyptus, we eventually crossed to the far steeper northern side of the 13-mile wide island at a height of some 3,000 feet before descending though shady forests of laurel to reach the small coastal town of San Vincente.


From here it was a short and quite dramatic coastal drive via tunnels bored through towering coastal cliffs to reach Porto Monz, the most north westerly point of the 35- mile long island.


Here we dined on fish overlooking the ocean before continuing our tour, winding up and over Madeira whose highest mountain Pico Ruivo towers to more than 6,000 feet. Instead of returning to the Quinta Jardins Du Lago. we had our luggage onboard the bus and were dropped off at the five-star Cliff Bay Hotel which enjoys a stunning multi- tiered position right over the ocean and the harbour.From our balcony on the seventh floor we had a bird's eye view of the cruise ships entering and leaving Madeira. And speaking of our feathered friends, a surprise treat was in store as we breakfasted in the terraced restaurant overlooking more lovely gardens the following morning.


We'd left Colombo behind but now we were to make the acquaintance of a Harris Hawk called Thonder who Jenny spotted sitting quietly on a railing with his keeper Norberto. So what was going on here, we just had to find out?


All became clear as the pair posed for a picture and Norberto explained that he or a colleague visited the hotel with the hawk for a couple of hours every day to deter pigeons or seagulls from nesting or roosting there. After breakfast we enjoyed spectacular views over the city and the ocean as we ascended by cable car to visit Madeira's famous botanical and Monte Palace Gardens followed by a not to be missed thrilling wicker toboggan ride.


These now famous toboggans were introduced by a British merchant in the early 19th century as a means of moving freight down the frighteningly steep hill to the old town and then someone came up with the bright idea of putting a seat on them.


Yet another reat was in store when we next took a taxi to the tranquil and less visited English country estate style Palheiro Gardens high above the city and lunched on homemade quiche in its little ' Tea House.' No visit to Madeira would be complete without taking a walk along one of its famous Levada water channels introduced in the 18th century as a means of irrigating the hundreds of man made vegetable and fruit growing terraces clinging to the mountainous terrain.There are dozens of them at varying heights all around Madeira of which 28 are officially designated walking routes so giving visitors a wonderful opportunity to explore the countryside. A visit to Funchal's Friday market was rewarded by a mouthwatering display of locally caught fish and a vast array of exotic fruits all grown on Madeira. There were 15 different varieties of passion fruit alone just another reason why so many return visitors are passionate about Madeira.


FACT FILE


Nigel Heath was a guest of Classic Collection Holidays (0800 047 1964) who have been tailor-making luxury hotel holidays for more than 30 years and will book flights, hotels and private transfers. He was hosted at the Quinta Jardin Du Lago and the Cliff Bay hotels. Jet2.com has just launched a Belfast International-Funchal, Madeira service


Colombo, a long standing and popular guest at the writer’s hotel


June 2018 Travel News


Our wine tour guide Queijada


Relaxing on the beach at Copia de Deixal


The beautiful Botanical Gardens on Madeira


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