FEBRUARY 2017 • COUNTRY LIFE IN BC
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Sparkling wines shine in diverse BC regions Bella Wines welcomes labelling regulations that identify Okanagan sub-regions
by SUSAN MCIVER
NARAMATA – Jay Drysdale loves sparkling wines and is keen to understand how conditions in the vineyard affect them. He believes the variation in these conditions is the basis for the new regulations that allow mention of sub-regions on wine labels. Drysdale and wife Wendy Rose own Bella Wines in Naramata.
“We’re the only winery in the province to exclusively make bubbles,” Drysdale says.
Explaining why Bella focuses on sparkling wines, he says, “The more you know about bubbles, the more you realize how food-friendly sparkling wines are.”
Before he and Rose launched Bella Wines in 2011, Drysdale was an accomplished chef and sommelier certified by the International Sommelier Guild. Keen on adding the title “winemaker” to his list of accomplishments, he completed the enology program at Washington State University. He also has experience in the business development aspects of the wine industry.
Today, he makes the wine and focuses on sales while Rose is in charge of the vineyard and general business operations. Bella produces single vineyard, single variety sparkling wines from Chardonnay and Gamay grapes.
Most of the wine is made using the traditional method, which allows for the addition of commercial yeast and sugar. “The use of only two varietals and one production method permits us to explore the nuances in the different personalities of each vineyard that comes through in the grapes,” Drysdale explains.
Bella sources grapes from vineyards ranging from Kamloops to Keremeos and from several locations on the Naramata Bench. Soil in Kamloops contains an abundance of limestone while farther south, the soil around Mt. Boucherie has considerable volcanic content. Keremeos soil is particularly high in minerals, including calcium, magnesium, iron and copper because in periods of glaciations, the Similkameen Valley was a lake in contrast to the Okanagan Valley, where water flowed through.
“Even on the Naramata Bench, we’re beginning to find completely different soils in close proximity,” Drysdale says. “We’re on heavy, silty, sandy loam and just above us, it’s gravelly alluvial soil.”
A wine’s characteristics are also highly dependent on the weather conditions at specific sites.
“We don’t see a lot of vintage expression here because we usually manipulate conditions through irrigation, sometimes even overhead irrigation to reduce the temperature,” Drysdale says.
In Europe, irrigation is not allowed, so true vintage expression is evident in the wine.
Drysdale says that on this continent, the importance of vintage expression is becoming more widely recognized. He reports that vineyards he ‘dry farms’ yield fruit with more intense flavour.
“Specific weather and soil conditions are important in differentiating geographic sub-regions,” he says. The BC Wine Authority announced new regulations late last year that will allow the recognition of sub-regions on the wine labels.
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Jay Drysdale of Bella Wines in Naramata, which exclusively produces sparkling wine. SUSAN MCIVER PHOTO
“I would love to see as many sub-regions as need be in the Okanagan Valley. There’s a major desire for this,” Drysdale says. He explains that recognition of sub-regions allows everyone within the industry to take
their specific region more seriously which, in turn, should attract more wine tourists and advance exports.
“It’s a big step in the maturation of the BC wine industry,” he says.
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