THOUGHT LEADERSHIP ETHICS & ENVIRONMENT IN 2017


2000% since they first applied it six years ago.


Its credentials (as well as the Fairmined mark) work because of the system in place to manage application, whereas the common ‘recycled’ symbol is in the public domain and not trademarked, so anyone could use it without sanction. Yet, numbers of articles which the assay office marked with the Fairtrade approval remained steady in 2016 compared with 2015. Does the lack of notable growth


last year tell us something about interest in Fairtrade metal, or reflect


a quieter industry as the number a


whole? The Fairtrade Foundation reports that


of


businesses working with Fairtrade Gold has continued to increase but at a slower rate than the previous year.


Ethically minded millenials, otherwise known as Generation Y, are the largest generation in western history. Reports have revealed them to be most concerned with ethical brand values when making a purchase, and willing to pay extra for sustainable offerings. It’s clear that future retail success depends on retailers staying relevant to their customers. However, who has the most to


spend? The ‘Grey Pound’ is strong, especially when you consider high student debt and house prices being out of reach for first time buyers. Might it seem unwise to focus on their


tastes, and seek


success entirely from those born 1980 – 2000? Rebecca Winder, an ethical designer-maker based in Leicester feels that the available options need much wider promotion to all, regardless of age and generation, and that people aren’t generally aware of the impacts of conventional gold – and herein lies the main issue. She believes we need to see large commercial boost in this area of the industry to boost the growing momentum and equal


60 JEWELLERY FOCUS


the interest that she sees in the movement. “My ethos,” she says, “is to try and raise awareness of how jewellery can have detrimental effects on those involved in the extraction of its raw materials. “It’s important to both use and promote the value of ethically sourced materials for jewellery – something that not all are aware of. My aim is to make jewellery ‘responsible’ and fair. The more power behind this the better. If the differences aren’t highlighted then consumers may remain unaware of alternatives – whether that be recycled, eco, Fairtrade, or regular metal.” She urges other jewellers and retailers to “tell customers about the Fairtrade option”. “I don’t see it weakens your standard- metal offer, it just gives choice,” she adds. This year, events will continue across England Scotland and Wales to raise awareness of Fairtrade Gold with the public. With support from Fairtrade’s network of over 600 Fairtrade Towns, 1,350 schools and 170 universities, and 7,500 places of worship, Fairtrade’s ‘I Do’ gold campaign aims to generate $1m in Fairtrade premium for disadvantaged mining communities around the world. This campaign encourages brides and grooms in the UK to buy Fairtrade gold rings ahead of Valentine’s Day. Fairtrade


supporters will host


photographic exhibitions of stunning images from the mines to illustrate the need for Fairtrade and benefits to miners. They hope the exhibitions will also provide a platform for jewellers to showcase their Fairtrade Gold jewellery. Furthermore, coinciding with Fairtrade Fortnight running from Monday 27 February - Sunday 12 March, the first Fairtrade Design Awards for emerging designers are launched.


Ingle & Rhode are inviting UK-based jewellery students,


apprentices, post graduates, and those at the start of their jewellery careers, to register by 12 February to apply for the awards and submit a design for a wedding ring, an engagement ring or a wedding and engagement ring set. Co-founder and director of the company, Tim Ingle, says: “The aim of the awards is to both showcase the talents of emerging jewellery designers, while raising awareness of Fairtrade gold amongst the people who are the future of our industry. “We’re really excited by the level of interest the awards are attracting, it goes to show how the importance of ethical sourcing is becoming increasingly accepted.” A shortlist of up to 20 finalists will be put to a public vote, with the winners announced in April. Prizes include £500, work experience and the chance to have winning designs made in Fairtrade gold.


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Ethically minded millenials, otherwise known as Generation Y, are the largest generation in Western history. Reports have revealed them to be most concerned with ethical brand values...


Another topical event is to run this February, as the University of Dundee hosts a Symposium on Ethical Making aimed primarily at jewellers and silversmiths who have an interest in adopting an ethical approach in their practice. Both Greg Valerio MBE and Tim Ingle will sit on the panel along with silversmith Karen Westland, jeweller Ute Decker, researcher Dr Peter Oakley and jeweller and ethical consultant Vivien Johnston. In an interview with Jewellery Focus in April 2016 Greg Valerio spoke of his aim of “doing a luxury jewellery launch at some point this year, hopefully in North America.” This goal is underway - in autumn he was made ambassador for Reflective Images, who are the only exclusively Fairtrade Gold jeweller in the USA. President Marc Choyt supports the launch of Fairtrade Gold in the US market as their commercial liaison, providing critical contacts that will lay the groundwork for more jewellers to enter the system.


Mainstream usage is still far February 2017 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk


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