// Resident Wine Expert
clear, vegetarian wine is not organic. It is wine made without the use of animal products at the fining stage – no egg whites or fish derived gelatins are used.
BIO-DYNAMIC WINES For a vineyard to be considered bio-dynamic, the vine grower
must follow the organic criteria in addition to, some or all of the philosophies as described in 1924 by Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian cultural philosopher, social reformer and spiritual scientist. His idea was to apply a holistic approach to the vineyard whereby every organism contributes and has a part to play in the ‘circle of life’ (does anybody else still think of the Lion King when they read those words?
...no?...just me again then..). Vineyards have to encourage biodiversity, be self-sustainable and not a monoculture, by planting a variety of plants (vineyards are usually monoculture as they grow only vines). I combines a planting, sowing, prining and harvesting regime, determined by the position of the sun, moon and planets.
Rudolph Steiner outlines nine preparations – numbered 500 – 508 – made from…cow manure, quartz(silica) and seven medicinal plants – Yarrow, Camomile, Nettles, Oak Bark, Dandelion, Valerian and Horsetail. Some of these are transformed, using animal organs as sheaths ( stags bladder for Yarrow, cows intestinefor Camomile, Oak Bark inside the skull of a farm animal, cow horns for cow manure, lining of abdominal cavity of cow for Dandelion, etc….it feels wrong to put etc., after such descriptions…the animal organs are not used on the vineyards). Of the nine preparations, three are used as sprays and six as solid compost.
Although I am sure many of you will agree with me that there are elements of the above (I am limited in that I do not have space to list all the processes involved), that seem strange, bordering on bizarre..you may be relieved to know that even those that practice bio-dynamic winemaking do not know how or why it works…it just does…apparently, and is considered to be a lifestyle choice for producers, their employees and their livestock.
NATURAL WINE Mmmmm….this is a tricky one. There is no official or legal
classification or standard set of operating procedures for Natural wine, which makes it difficult to define. There are however unofficial definitions and codes of practice published by various associations such as the Vins Natural de France, VinNatur or Simbiosa.
Speaking broadly, organic and bio-dynamic wines concentrate on the vineyard, with the ethos following through to the winery. With Natural wines, stricter, self-imposed standards exist. For example, copper sulphate sprays and cultivated yeasts are never used in Natural wine. Sulphur Dioxide (SO2) is the only additive used in natural winemaking (as a disinfectant and antioxidant), in small quantities, if the winemaker wishes to. Using this method of winemaking, by its very nature ensures that Natural winemakers are small scale, artisan operations that
often risk an entire years production by remaining true to their principles – to follow an ancient historical method that combines great care in the vineyard and winery to make the best product that nature can provide.
Such wines are often criticized – in the main because good and bad wines are received with the same enthusiasm. Which is bit daft when you sit (glass in hand) and think about it….why should all Natural wines be good, simply because they are ‘Natural’ . It just cannot be…otherwise every producer in the world (or at least the wealthy ones) would move to Natural production.
For me, unfortunately, there are few ‘Natural’ wines that sing quality and the movement in general has a slight whiff of ‘Emperors New Clothes’ about it, with inflated prices to match. I would be truly and genuinely interested in your thoughts on the matter.
To finish…wonderful weekend!! The Christening of my God-Daugher Kate’s daughter…(keep up please) Amelia. Such a lovely day, great fun. Laughter on tap – courtesy of the Force of Nature that is Faye. Back to the farm for Sausage plait and Rioja…talks into the night with Sarah and Lou.
Next morning –tea and old photographs! Walk round sheep to check none had decided to become Olympic swimmers in the large pond. Back to house for cake - really?, you thought cake would not factor in at some point?.....
Load up with home reared lamb joints, back to mine for swopsies – Chasse Spleen 2006 for the most beautiful sweet tasting Lamb ever. Who says the age of barter has gone…
Sante / 97
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164