GREAT DESTINATIONS Burgundian villages C’EST BEAU LA BOURGOGNE
A TRIO OF MEDIEVAL VILLAGES IN THE AUXOIS, RICH IN HISTORY AND CHARM
Words: Guy Hibbert
he green, rolling landscape of the Auxois lies west of Dijon, capital of the famed Bourgogne region. This part of central France is famous for the superstar wine growing areas of Beaune and the Côte-d’Or, which attract millions of travellers every year, all eager to discover the home of the prized appellations and to sample a grand cru or two. On a recent visit, I resisted the temptations of a dégustation amongst the vineyards of the Côte de Nuits and went a little further afi eld, to discover the towns and villages that lie quietly in the shadow of wine tourism.
T SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS
The medieval town of Semur-en-Auxois sits perched on a massive bluff of pink-granite, above a deeply-cut, looping meander of the Armançon river. Early morning mists linger across the river as the dark waters ripple under the Pont Pinard, an ancient stone bridge over which one can imagine long ago the drovers and heavily-laden peasant farmers bringing their produce to market. One hundred and forty one broad and winding steps lead up from the bridge to the historic town centre so today it’s still possible to follow directly in the footsteps of those ancient visitors, arriving from the country to conduct their business behind the city walls.
As you look up, four majestic medieval towers loom imposingly, catching the fi rst rays of the sun. Like four muscular sentinels, the Towers Géhenne, Margot, Orle d’Or and the Prison Tower, together with their adjoining stone walls, once formed an impregnable defence of the keep, protecting the inhabitants of Semur in times of siege. Today, they are a picturesque and well-preserved legacy of former times – one is used as a museum and another as a dressing room by actors performing in the adjacent Théâtre à l’Italienne, which was founded in 1847. The Tower Orle d’Or – so called because a golden band of metal once fringed its stonework – has an enormous visible crack running in an alarming zigzag across and down its girth. But apparently we should not be too concerned – the fault has been there since 1602, which must count as one of the longest waits ever experienced for household repairs.
In the 13th century, Semur was the capital of the Auxois, replete with a bailiff appointed by Robert II, Duke of Burgundy. This created both wealth and protection for the town, laying a strong foundation which has allowed it to survive the centuries relatively undamaged. Rue Buffon, a pedestrianized zone, invites you to wander quietly past quaint, half-timbered medieval buildings which house an inviting selection of cafés and everyday shops.
Eventually, you arrive at the Collégiale Notre-Dame. This stately church was fi rst founded in 1220 and has some beautiful wood carvings, statues and effi gies dating from the 13th to 16th centuries, but much of its current, 19th-century exterior is thanks to Viollet le Duc, the famous architect of La Cité at Carcassonne.
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Semur’s impressive medieval towers look down to Pont Pinard on the River Armançon
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IMAGE: ® BOB RADLINSKI
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