British Columbia, Alberta, and Montana. The coal-fuelled prosperity of the city led to its nickname “Pittsburgh of the West.” While coal mining waned


around Fernie itself with the closure of the Coal Creek Mine in 1958, new and bigger open-pit coal mining operations were developed in the upper Elk River Valley in the 1960s and 1970s to supply coking coal to Japan. Major coal players like the Teck Corporation, Fording Coal Incorporated, and Luscar Limited, and lumber producers like Crestbrook Forest Industries Limited, form the economic engine that drives the region’s prosperity. The company towns of Sparwood and Elkford with Fernie make up the three major urban centres along the Elk River. Yet, while standing along the banks of the Elk River, there is little evidence of such intrusive resource development. The region boasts superb summertime outdoor activities like hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, wildlife viewing, boating, and trout fishing. In the fall, there is excellent limited- entry hunting for deer, moose, mountain goat, big horn sheep, bear, and elk. During the winter, there is fabulous downhill skiing with plenty of fresh powder on Fernie Mountain, as well as cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, ice-fishing, and even river fishing on unfrozen sections of the Elk. Best of all, you can enjoy all these outdoor activities in an uncrowded, spectacular mountainous setting.


Most of the length of the Elk River can be easily reached by automobile. Paved provincial Highways #93, #3, and #43 follow the river closely from Lake Koocanusa to Elkford, with many access points to the river within a stone’s throw of the shoulder of the road. The river’s headwaters lie in Elk Lakes Provincial Park, north of Elkford, and we will begin our survey there.


54 The SPORT FISHING Guide 2012


Elk Lakes Provincial Park to Sparwood (115 kilometres) Elk Lakes Provincial Park is 70


kilometres north of Elkford via the gravel Elk River Forestry Service Road. There are a number of forestry campsites along this stretch of the Elk River, but access to the river from the forestry road sometimes involves a fair hike. The upper Elk Valley and Elk Lakes Provincial Park are true wilderness areas. With its more than 40 kilometres of trails along the river and into the surrounding mountains, combined with its abundant wildlife, Elkford likes to be known as the “Wilderness Capital of B.C.” From the four-way stop sign at the north end of Highway #43 in Elkford, there are two easy ways to get views of the upper Elk River. The first is to go 5.5 kilometres north on the Elk River Forestry Service Road to Round Prairie. At Round Prairie, there is a large flat open space where camping is permitted. Crossing the river via the footbridge at Round Prairie will bring you to the east side of the Elk River and the four-kilometre River Walk Trail. This trail goes south towards Elkford along the banks of the river. Bring a fly rod, as there are good stretches of the river to “walk and wade.” For an overview of the upper


Elk River Valley and the towering mountains that border it, turn north at the four-way stop sign onto Greenhills Road instead. This road crosses the Elk River, and climbs steeply toward the Fording Coal and Greenhills mining operations. Look for a sign that says “Viewpoint Turn Around” at about 3.5 kilometres, then turn left and go back down the hill to the Greenhills Viewpoint. My wife Suzanne and I were


awestruck by the tremendous view. Far below, the Elk River Valley is a wide, verdant strip. To the west, rugged mountains climb sharply from the valley floor and rise above the tree line. At a commanding


2,920 metres, Phillips Peak stands out dramatically. Dwarfed by its surrounding mountains, the town of Elkford seems the size of a postage stamp. We were thrilled to see a sizable herd of elk in a field just off the road.


Continuing south down Highway #43 brings you to Sparwood. Incorporated in 1966, the town was originally named for the very straight trees that were suitable for making sailing ships’ spars. Sparwood lies at the junction of the Elk River and Michel Creek, one of the Elk’s major tributaries. Michel Creek has excellent fishing, especially along the road to the Line Creek Mine off Highway #3. Sparwood is proud of its coal mining. Parked next to Highway #3 is a hard-to-miss lime green Terex Titan — “The World’s Largest Dump Truck” with 350 tonnes’ capacity — used in nearby open pit mines to haul coal. At the Travel Infocentre near the Terex Titan, staff are happy to arrange mine tours any weekday from June to the end of August.


Sparwood - Fernie - Elko (60 kilometres)


While the Elk River is navigable


by watercraft throughout its length, both river access and the long distances between put-in to take-out spots have limited most water travel to the section of the Elk River between Sparwood and the B.C. Hydro reservoir at Elko. Guiding operations like the Kootenay Fly Shop and Guiding Company, or the Elk River Guiding Company Limited, have established manageable 10- to 16-kilometre drift trips that last four to five hours for sightseeing, or seven to eight hours for fishing trips. These guiding companies also offer drop- off and pickup services to visitors who have their own watercraft. The beauty of the Elk River Valley and its majestic bordering mountains, as well as superb dry fly fishing for


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