PTJan/Feb 2010 p66-67 R and B Review YC PJ MB 21/1/10 17:43 Page 2
The knowledge Eating out
Ciren’s new sensation
A restaurant with cracking polo credentials is introducing Cotswold taste buds
to the likes of nigiri, wasabi and inside-out maki. Georgie May checks out
Soushi, which Nina Clarkin and two enterprising friends opened in November
irencester has long been crying out almost wolfed in a single mouthful the little pile of the wall, which somewhat spoilt any family feel
C
for something different in terms of wasabi – the green spicy Japanese horseradish paste the restaurant might have hoped to convey.
places to eat, so when Soushi came that makes your eyes water. Just in time we decided We shared two puddings from the specials board
to town it was a welcome surprise. to taste it first and quickly discovered it wasn’t hanging near the bar, which we hadn’t spotted
A joint venture between top female avocado. George Fox told us we weren’t the first: earlier. The sticky toffee pudding was a winner, a
player Nina Clarkin and her friends Christina Smail “Christopher Fear, Cirencester Park’s photographer, touch of ginger rendering it exquisite, while the
and Rosie Knock, the Japanese restaurant is the first did the same when he was here, putting the whole warm chocolate brownie with ice cream and
of its kind in the market town in Gloucestershire – thing in his mouth without a second thought.” raspberry coulis melted in the mouth.
indeed it claims to be the first in the county. Next up were a “Special Maki”, and a Japanese chef Shinichi Okawa has done
Soushi is in a prime spot near the high street in “Moriawase” platter, both particularly recommended Soushi proud, and if everyone’s food is as tasty
one of Cirencester’s latest new developments – the by the manager. The Special Maki – tempura prawn as ours was it should be a big hit. Already the
Old Post Office, just off Castle Street. Arriving on a and asparagus in rice and nori – was sensational. restaurant offers take-away boxes (£7 for a large
Friday night in mid-January, my companion and I The Moriawase featured a collection of unfamiliar one) and lunchtime specials, and George Fox
were welcomed by manager George Fox, polo- pieces of sushi – a little unnerving for us novices. hopes in time to run cooking courses at the
playing boyfriend of Nina’s sister Tamara Vestey, and
shown to our table in the petite but airy dining area.
Just in time we decided to taste the little green pile rather
They have made the most of the little space, with an
than wolfing it, and quickly discovered it wasn’t avocado
all-glass exterior giving an illusion of greater size
and a glass window into the kitchen so diners can My companion found herself pleasantly surprised to Royal Agricultural College’s food school. With
see the chefs at work. relish in particular the eel nigiri, having sampled eel Cirencester Park a mere walk away, and
Décor is conventionally modern and pleasingly in New Zealand and vowed never to eat it again. Beaufort, Edgeworth and Longdole within an
stylish, with - most importantly – comfy seating, The fish was super-fresh and the tastes were sharp easy drive, Soushi has what it takes to become
including a couple of booths with benches. and memorable – superior to any sushi either of us a hub for the polo crowd, too. F
Expecting - from occasional visits to London sushi had tasted before.
bars - to be crouched at a conveyor belt and forced We also arrived as sake beginners and were keen
PT RATING: ★★★★★
to delve into the unknown, we were pleased to relax to learn the ropes. The warm rice wine, which
◗ Our three-course meal for two, including a
at our own table while attentive staff explained arrived in a small vase, slipped down beautifully, a
bottle of white (Cépage Colombard Vin de Pays
what we might eat. pleasant temperature and a smooth partner to
Côtes de Gascogne 2008) and a vase of
We began with sweet shrimp nigiri (hand-formed what we ate. Hakushika Ginjo Nama Sake, cost £53.
balls of rice with seafood topping), a smoked salmon Giving Soushi full marks so far, I was
◗ Soushi (The Old Post Office, 12 Castle Street,
roll and some “California” inside-out maki (crab and disappointed to be let down by my visit to the loo –
Cirencester GL7 1QA; 01285 641414;
avocado within rice and nori – a sort of seaweed only one lavatory for the whole restaurant and the
www.soushi.co.uk is open Mon-Tues 12-3pm
wrapping), along with a helping of ginger to cleanse temperature was sub-zero. I didn’t hang around, but (lunch only), Wed-Sat 12-3pm and 6pm-
the palate. Comfortably polishing off the lot, we could not miss the saucy karma sutra picture on
midnight and closed Sun.
66 January/February 2010 www.polotimes.co.uk
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