COMPANY PROFILE
Cheryl Taylor talks to footwear consultant Andrew Kephalas of
AK Footwear Consultancy
Tell us about your company history and how you gained your expertise? I studied shoe design/pattern cutting and management at the
Cordwainers College London. Honours include London Certificate of Art and Design (Distinction). I then spent 6 months designing and pattern cutting at the Giengi Shoe Design studio in Bologna, Italy. The company were selling shoe designs in the form of made up pullovers (prototype samples) to clients in Italy and other parts of the world. On my return to London I gradually integrated into the family shoe
manufacturing business Talltrend Ltd, located in the Mile End Road in London’s east end. Over the next few years we expanded our ladies high fashion shoe production supplying multiples such as Stylo Barrats, Faith, Derber, Sasha and many other independents both in UK and Europe.
Which companies have you worked for in the past? When I stopped manufacturing in 1991, I joined Phoenix London who took
over Barker shoes of Earls Barton, where I became their Special Projects Director working along Lance Clark (Chairman of Clarks shoes/MD of Barker shoes). I was mainly sourcing components from Italy and Portugal and successfully regarding negotiating component prices with their suppliers – the savings were astronomical! During my time with Phoenix, I recruited technicians who helped me set up a ladies shoe factory in India (Madam Phoenix) to produce High fashion ladies leather shoes. I was also responsible for putting together all the development (lasts, heels, soles, patterns and machine tooling up).
Andrew Kephalas of AK Footwear Consultancy
What are you up to now? Importing small quantities of Men's handmade Goodyear welted shoes
from China for UK retailers. I am also working on leather, component and accessory sourcing for clients, including chain stores, footwear retailers and manufacturers. I travel to China 6 times per year.
Who have you worked for? Some of the clients I have worked for include London Enterprise Group, John Fluevog – Vancouver, working in Mexican, Canadian and Portuguese factories, Terra Plana - working with Chinese factories, Cushe – working in China, Marchpole Plc (Tesco – saucing new factory, arranging and overseeing the development and production of a new range of shoes. Overseeing the entire process from last making to sample stage from original designer’s drawings which resulted in an initial order of 67,000 pairs). . . I recently completed a two year consultancy with Hudson Shoes working
on men's and ladies shoes saucing new suppliers and monitoring production in India, Dubai and China. I live in Totteridge, North London.
What’s it like doing business in China now? How has Chinese footwear manufacturing changed in recent years? It is much easier than it used to be as the Chinese have got used to our
ways. As more and more Chinese manufacturing companies have closed down they have come to realise that to survive, they must be prepared and geared up to handle smaller quantities than before. Although there is still a stigma when Chinese goods are mentioned, the
quality in many factories is on par with Europe. This is largely due to European technicians being present in the factories during production. Where many importers of shoes from China have failed is when they do not monitor production and only send quality control personnel in to check the goods on completion – that's too late.
Which do you consider your key skills?
• I have hands-on experience from footwear design to completion of sample then to production.
• I don’t just point out faults in the product. I instruct/demonstrate how to correct and avoid the problem.
•With my training & experience, I understand how shoes should be made & how they fit.
How does the trade contact you? AK Footwear Consultancy Ltd Mob UK: 0044 (0) 7768 792 792 Skype:
Andrew.Kephalas Email:
info@shoefoto.com
AUGUST 2014 • FOOTWEAR TODAY • 31
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