The Thule Behri


A RIVER JOURNEY THROUGH NEPAL’S MYTHICAL DOLPA DISTRICT


STORY AND PHOTOS BY MAXI KNIEWASSER “W


HERE IN GOD’S NAME IS THE RIVER?” “I’m pretty sure it’s just over there,” Ric spit, pointing


aimlessly down the valley in response to Steve’s question. Their ex- change was flavored with a hint of the tension we were all feeling. “Just get organized. Simon and I’ll go and find some porters,” I tried to assure the boys. We mimed the profession to an elderly village woman, asking where


we could hire someone to carry our gear. Quickly understanding us, she pointed to the hills. November is harvest season in the Dolpa re- gion of Nepal, we learned. Any would-be porters were busy gathering food for their families for the upcoming winter, but the thought of shouldering our beastly boats, laden with camping gear and food for seven days, kept us searching.


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