DINING
San Diego Uptown News | Oct. 28-Nov. 10, 2011 FRANK SABATINI JR. / RESTAURANT REVIEW
11
2540 Congress St. (Old Town) 619-294-2540
Dinner prices: Starters, $9 to $15; pastas and entrees, $14 to $23
the heart of taco-rich Old Town, he recalls people warning him that the concept would never go over. Missing from the menu was anything that even faintly re- sembled Mexican food. Two years later, you still won’t find a single tortilla or margarita in the house. Yet on almost any given night the little dwelling that he turned into an intimate bistro fills to capacity. To those who recall Pelliccia’s
W
smart Italian cooking at Solare in Liberty Station, don’t assume he’s carried those dishes over to 25 Forty. Yes, there is a “starches” section on the menu featuring some clever pasta dishes, but the journey to Italy pretty much ends there. The chef’s newfound versatil-
ity touches down on things like braised pork belly with sweet potato salad, duck and white bean casserole, steaks and a memorable grilled bratwurst served over homemade sauerkraut. Available as an appetizer it’s the first time I’ve been fed German food made by an Italian. The cabbage, we learned, is braised in cider. And it’s awfully good. Visiting with a friend who
lives nearby and appreciates the culinary alternatives the bistro brings to the neighborhood, we also began our meal with vegetable croquettes served over “fondue.” Pelliccia purees various vegetables that include potatoes, carrots, celery, peas and spinach and then shapes them into fingers before rolling them in panko crumbs. The so-called fondue bedding over which they’re served turns out to be more of a cheddar cheese sauce. Not bad, but not sensational. It was the only dish of the evening that teetered on the ordinary. Handmade gnocchi coated in
butter and sage was expectedly perfect. Pelliccia keeps the gnocchi light, which contrasted beautifully with the heavy mouth feel from the butter. Since our visit, the website shows that pumpkin and poppy seeds have come into play for the gnocchi. Also dashing were ravioli stuffed with eggplant parmigiana. Their fillings were rather scant, but we got the gist given that the sheet pasta was thin and light. Surround- ing the delicate pillows were bits of chewy, delicious bacon. The soup of the day was tasty and unusual in that it combined tomatoes and potatoes into a ruby- red puree that was comforting and natural tasting. I can’t recall ever seeing these two organics served in such unison. Equally unique was cheese risotto kept moist by sweet soy sauce boasting the deep-rust
hen Chef Mark Pelliccia opened 25 Forty Bistro in
color of beef jus. A filet of cod draped over the top and a dab of wasabi sitting at the lip of the plate qualified it as one of the first Italian- Asian fusion dishes I’ve come across – and outstanding it was. Pelliccia’s willingness to take chances becomes evident from the get go, beginning with shots of soju, lime and cream that guests are served when the meals gets underway. The milky mixture, which turns clear after about 15 minutes, performs as a refreshing palate cleanser between courses. It’s a minor, welcoming amenity that so many restaurants don’t real- ize carries the power of generating repeat business. Our entrees stole the show, both of them red-wine friendly land meats. My companion opted for the bistro filet, a thick cut of velvety beef made more luscious by truffle sauce that oozed into a mound of unadulterated mashed potatoes sitting underneath. The steak was cooked exactly as ordered: medium-rare. Throughout several menu
Vegetable croquettes over
cheese sauce call for a cold beer. (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)
changes that Pel- liccia has made since opening, the boneless
tenderloin pork chops with Fuji apples has re-
mained a staple. We quickly understood why. For starters you get three thick chops per order while the
braised apple slices con- tribute their juices to those captured from the pork. What you end up with is a nurturing, rustic dish that raises pork to its highest flavor level. A bed of wilted kale rounds out the plate. Our meal ended on yet
another culinary magic act, with a house-made dessert called the raspberry meringue sphere. It’s actually an orb, about the size of baseball and with a frozen exte- rior. Inside lies a spurt of room- temperature raspberry puree and semi-thickened cream. Pelliccia uses half-sphere molds to form the balls and then rolls them in meringue to cover up their seams. The thing melts on the tongue and goes down like a puff of air. If you’re looking for a new lunch spot, Pelliccia has in- troduced a mighty attrac- tive deal. Visit between noon and 2 p.m.
Fri-
Tuesday through day and savor an all-you-can-eat meal for $8.
The setup is a buffet-style
spread featur- ing several
dishes that we trust won’t be generic.u
A filet of cod sinks into creamy risotto
encircled with sweet soy sauce (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)
– featuring authentic Mexican soups & sauces – TRADITIONAL & MEXICAN
BREAKFAST – Served 7 days A Week We offer Catering
(619) 295-2070 3172 5th Ave. (5th & Spruce), San Diego, CA 92103
www.jimmycartersmexicancafe.com Limit 3 per person
Starting 4:30 PM Daily
NIGHT OWL MENU EVERY NIGHT 10 PM TIL CLOSE
10 Delicious meals Including soda, coffee, & tea
Til midnight weekdays Til 2 am Friday & Saturday
Includes Mashed Potatoes, Veggies & Dinner Roll
2547 San Diego Ave. • OLD TOWN • San Diego • 92110 619-298-0133 •
www.ohungrys.com
535 University at 6th • 619-295-2747
CityDeli.com • For Delivery call 619-600-5133 • OPEN EARLY DAILY
Til Midnight Sun.-Thur. • Til 2am Fri.+Sat. In the Heart of Hillcrest • Validated Parking
JUST $10
each plus tax
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