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DINING DAVID NELSON / SDUN FOOD CRITIC FOOD FIELD TRIP


San Diego Uptown News | Feb. 4-17, 2011


13


KITCHEN & BAR 4996 W. Point Loma Blvd., Ocean Beach 619-224-2884 www.bobeaukitchen.com Main dishes $10.50-$19


Try the moules-frites—mussels and french fries. (Michael Pawlenty/SDUN)


The next time you slowly, reluctantly, regretfully slide a twenty from your wallet, consider this before kissing Andrew Jackson goodbye: You’d get a buck back if you traded the bill for a big plate of steak-frites at the new Bo-beau Kitchen & Bar in Ocean Beach. Tax and tip ultimately elevate the tab, but a bargain’s a bargain, and a plate like theirs for $19 is pretty much a steal.


The newest offering from top


local restaurateurs David and Lesley Cohn, Bo-beau marches in step with other trendy eater- ies that have (for the moment) installed a $20 ceiling above entrée prices. The restaurant extends the rule to a “quick list” of decent bottles, both red and white, which uniformly cost $20. Pricier selec- tions populate the formal wine card, but the short list offers a nice break to customers who’d like to enjoy some vino without emptying their pockets. Bo-beau’s bartend- ers pour all the usual libations plus some specialty craft cocktails ($9), such as “Toulouse Lautrec’s Earthquake,” a hard-headed blend of absinthe and Cognac. I wouldn’t venture one myself, and anybody who takes the plunge is invited to report on the aftermath. Built for two and priced at $15, the “Treaty of Paris” spikes a big pour of Beefeater Gin with something called “Eucamint Sour” and what the menu insists are “smashed grapes.” Drink one by yourself and the grapes won't be the only thing smashed. Before the bubble burst, many diners in San Diego ignored prices, which just seemed to get higher all the time. Now restaurants are so eager to fill their dining rooms with bright, smiling faces that many scramble to make the experience affordable. Quality has to figure into the equation, to be sure, and Bo-beau gives custom- ers significant bang for the buck. Chef Katherine Humphus, plenty experienced in professional kitch- ens, brings a decided flair to the preparation of her attractive bistro menu. Having started cooking at a young age, Humphus pursued formal training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, and then worked under notables such as Thomas Keller (French Laundry), and in New York with Wylie Dufresne, at his endearingly named WD-50. Well-known restaurateur Philippe Beltran, Paris born and a


fixture in San Diego for more than 20 years, conceived the design that transformed the old Thee Bunga-


see Beau, page 22


Chef Katherine Humphus brings experience and flair to the kitchen at Bo-beau, the latest incantation from David and Lesley Cohn. The restaurant now resides where the Thee Bungalow was in Ocean Beach. (Michael Pawlenty/SDUN)


A San Diego Landmark Since 1944 Quality Home Cooking


HAPPY


HOUR 7 Days


3 to 6pm As Seen on TV!


Restaurant & Bakery Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner


$2.00 OFF Any Menu Entree


Up to 2 people minimum $8 Entree. Not valid with other offers, weekends, or holidays. Expires 02/17/11


Open Daily: 7am-9pm


2271 First Avenue (Corner of 1st & Juniper) www.hobnobhill.com • (619) 239-8176


Gold Medallion Award Winner 2009


Thank you to the community for 21 Years of Support!


SPECIAL Mon-Fri Starting at


LUNCH $4.95


527 University Ave (619) 291-7525


www.tasteofthaisandiego.com dessert . drink . dine Hillcrest •


20% OFF ENTIRE CHECK


With the purchase of two entrees. Does not include drinks. Not valid with any other offers or on holidays. Exp: 02-28-11


Authentic Old World Mexican Cusine 3693 Fifth Avenue


619.546.5934 • huapangoscuisine.com Pennsylvania and Fifth Ave


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