26 San Diego Uptown News | January 7–20, 2011 HAPPY


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DINING FROM PAGE 25 THAI


very spicy seasoning, garnish the listing for pork shanks a la Val, yet another dish you’re unlikely to encounter elsewhere in town. It’s an elegant dish (and not at all overpoweringly hot), which pres- ents three lacquered, remarkably succulent little shanks, so tender that the rich meat almost melts at a glance. It certainly melts in the mouth, and most deliciously, thanks to a wide range of flavor- ings that includes Thai herbs, garlic and lemon grass; arranged on top, sprays of utterly unfamiliar green berries turn out to be Asian chili seeds. They’re pretty to look at, but otherwise, look out. A dish so essentially meaty as the pork shanks calls out for a vegetable accompaniment, such as the Thai asparagus listed on the specials menu. Sautéed with mush- rooms in a mild, somewhat gar- licky oyster sauce, the asparagus has a nice, crisp “bite” between the teeth, and stands alone just as successfully as it pairs with meat preparations. Enrich it if you like with a choice of chicken, shrimp or tofu, or pair it with the Crying Tiger, a familiar dish that Taste of Thai presents quite appetizingly as a half-pound New York steak, marinated, grilled and served with a notably spicy lime dipping sauce. It’s a genuine pleasure as long as you enjoy a sizzling taste of spice. The specials list offers other


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treasures, but Taste of Thai’s standing menu presents a compre- hensive survey of favorites, from appetizers such as fried Spring rolls filled with chicken, shrimp, cabbage and glass noodles, to such


handsome seafood preparations as grilled freshwater prawns. These sizeable, succulent critters can be ordered swimming in a mild curry sauce or doused with a spicy chili


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sauce. The option adds to the plea- sure, as long as the table can agree how to approach these tasty beau- ties. Like most of the many entrees and curries, the excellent selection of noodle and rich dishes can be prepared vegetarian-style or with a long list of garnishes that ranges from tofu, chicken, Thai sausage and roasted pork to beef, roasted duck, shellfish or mixed seafood, all priced accordingly. Portions are large, and there is virtually no chance of going home hungry. Desserts, often the short suit at


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Affordable all-american cuisine, from burgers, bbq and salads to steaks and seafood. All new Hi-Def projection screen and flat


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Not valid with any other offer or discount. Expires: 1/31/11. MVN 1210 . www.rjgrill.com • 619.296.9600 • 7510 Hazard Center Dr., Mission Valley UPTOWN DINING


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Asian restaurants, are varied and pleasant, and while the season- ally available pairing of mango and sticky rice is probably the most typical (and perfectly deli- cious, too), a satisfying degree of self-indulgence attaches itself to the pairing of fried, finger-length banana pastries and coconut ice cream. From the point of view of one who might manage the entire plate, this sweet shares altogether too well.u


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