DINING DAVID NELSON / SDUN FOOD CRITIC


San Diego Uptown News | January 7–20, 2011


25


Taste of Thai


527 University Ave.


291-7525


tasteofthaisandiego.com


Entrees $9.95 - $14.95


on a chilly Thursday evening, Taste of Thai noisily affirmed the dining magnet that Hillcrest has become in the last two decades. It wasn’t always this way.


Proprietor Val Habbestad, a native of Thailand married to a Norwegian, recalls that when she opened her University Avenue hot spot in the late 1980s, Hillcrest was just emerging from the doldrums that followed the closure of once- popular neighborhood eateries such as Pernicano’s and Casa di Baffi a decade or so earlier. “Corvette Diner had just opened, and that made all the difference,” Habbestad said before scurrying off to add the names of new arrivals to the waiting list. Interestingly, Corvette Diner has since moved to the Liberty Station district of Point Loma, and its sister restaurant, Kemo Sabe, has gone to restaurant limbo for the time being, although it may resurface in coastal North County within a year. But Taste of Thai rocks and rolls, as do many of the other res- taurants that jostle one another in this relatively compact dining and entertainment district. It’s hard to believe, but when


Taste of Thai opened, it was among a handful of Thai restaurants in San Diego. At present, it seems as if a Thai place occupies every cor- ner, and the explanation is simple enough: locals like bright, fresh flavors tinged with spice, and Thai cuisine has all of this, plus a great deal more. By no means can one restaurant substitute for another, however. While the general quality level of Thai restaurant cuisine in San Diego is quite good, a quick read of the Taste of Thai specials menu makes it clear that this is the destination for distinctive (at least locally) and well-prepared dishes. The most delicious example is the appetizer called “Larb mush- room delight.” Habbestad said she encountered this flavorful little masterpiece on her last visit to Thailand, in mid-2009, and after tasting it, one eagerly wishes her many more happy trips home. Larbs made with minced pork or chicken are familiar to regular patrons of local Thai eateries, but this one, centered by mushroom slices cooked to an unusual and irresistibly crisp finish, stands out for delicacy and flavor. Tossed with vivid seasonings such as lime juice, dried chili, lemongrass, fresh mint


and rice powder and meant to be rolled in crisp lettuce leaves, the mushrooms run a race around the mouth that touches all the bases and gets every taste bud involved. Don’t miss this one.


A few of the same seasonings—


lime, red onion and chili—enliven the whole trout with green apple salsa, but the addition of cashew


nuts and other items creates an entirely different effect for this dish. Another one-of-a-kind spe- cialty, this is just what the menu describes, a quick-fried trout with the tart flavor of green apple as the dominant note in a sharp sympho- ny of flavors. Two stars, denoting


see Thai, page 26


One of San Diego’s “Hot New Restaurants” San Diego Magazine, February 2010


Contemporary Comfort Cuisine Every Tuesday is Craft Night!


Craft your own burger with our Meyer All Natural Beef and Chef’s vast array of toppings Pair with a Karl Strauss seasonal craft beer—$15!


January 16-21st


During San Diego Restaurant Week—3 course Prix Fixe dinner only $30 Chef’s Market Dinner


Friday Jan. 21st-Market walk and 4 course seasonal dinner 619.295.6000 for tickets Sunday Brunch—Buy one entrée get one free with this ad. Expires 2/7/11


741 W Washington St. Mission Hills San Diego, 92103


One of San Diego’s Best Neighborhood Restaurants Riviera Magazine, July/August 2010


619.295.6000 thereddoorsd.com


elegant


intimate


timeless Celebrating Our First Anniversary!


Wednesday Jan. 12th—Beef Wellington & a specialty martini or glass of champagne $30 January 16-21st


During San Diego Restaurant Week we are offering a 3 course Prix Fixe dinner for $40 The only San Diego restaurant serving Beef Wellington every day


729 W Washington St. Mission Hills San Diego, 92103 619.295.6001 thewellingtonsd.com


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