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GRAB LOOPS Start with grab loops—because they are simple, and because they are a precursor to installing the air bags. With a 7/16-inch drill bit, drill a hole on each side of the
hull, three inches below the deck plates and three inches from the ends (photo 1). Force some flat one-inch webbing through the holes and tie the ends off inside the boat (photo 2). Leave enough slack so the loop can swing up and over the deck plate when you carry the canoe. For added comfort you can thread the webbing through a length of pliable 5/8-inch vinyl tubing before pushing the ends through the hull.
AIR BAGS Start by buying 36-inch nylon bags. Nylon bags cost more than vinyl, but end bags are such an effective investment in keeping your canoe from wrapping around a rock you’ll be glad for the added durability. Drill 3/16-inch holes in the hull just below the gunwales.
Start at the end of the deck plates and drill every four inches out to where the inflated bags end (photo 3). Weave a 3mm nylon cord through the 3/16-inch holes,
starting next to the deck plates. On the cord’s last crossing tie a loop (using a figure eight on a bight) on the inside of the hull as a stopper. Then tension the cord backward through all the holes until you’re back at the first end. Thread this end through the next hole and tie it off with a few half hitches on the inside of the boat.
9 Go back to the last crossing and tie two evenly spaced
figure-eight loops. Tension this end and thread it back through the second-to-last hole so you can tie it off on the inside of the hull (photo 4). Now feed a short length of 3mm cord through the grab loop holes and tie the ends together inside the hull. This loop will anchor a piece of webbing running down the centre of the cord cage you are creating (photo 2). Feed the two ends of a second length of cord through the
grab loop holes, run them underneath the bag cage and tie them off to the figure-eight loops you tied on the last parallel crossing (photos 2 and 5). Directly below the line of figure-eight knots, glue three
evenly spaced vinyl anchor patches. The secret to installing vinyl anchors is to keep everything clean. Wipe the hull and anchors with acetone. Wearing gloves, apply vinyl glue to both the hull and the patch. Let dry for 20 minutes. Reactivate the glue with a heat gun, and place the patch. Apply pressure with a roller. Let the vinyl adhesive dry for 24 hours, then thread cord through the figure-eight knots and anchors in a W shape (photo 6 and 5).
KNEEPADS AND THIGH STRAPS The wider you place the kneepads the better you will be able to balance the canoe with your knees. With this in mind, find a placement that is comfortable and mark it, then get the glue. Glue a thigh strap anchor patch between the kneepads,
five inches forward of the seat bar. Glue the wall anchors centered between the seat supports, with the top of the patches just under the gunwales (photo 7). Store-bought pads and straps are more expensive but also more comfortable than the DIY variety (photo 8).
DECK BUNGEE A short loop of 3/16-inch shock cord on each deck plate is a great way to keep painters or throwbags out of the way yet accessible. Just drill two holes in the deck plate four inches apart and parallel to the yoke. Feed each end of a short length of shock cord below the deck plate and tie each end off (photo 9).
INCREASED CARGO CAPACITY Many boats are set up with the rear thwart too close to the centre yoke for two barrels to fit side by side, parallel to the keel line. Solve this problem by moving the stern thwart a few inches toward the stern (photo 10). Twenty-five inches from the yoke is a good minimum distance. The gunwale width of your boat will decrease the closer you get to the stern. To make sure you don’t add unwanted flare to your hull you may have to shorten the thwart before repositioning it. Take the length off just one end and re-drill new holes for the bolts in the freshly cut end.
BY CANOEROOTS STAFF w w w. c a n o e r o o t sma g . c om n 23
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