Switching Fishes
Some of the fish we most enjoy eating are in serious trouble due to overfishing or habitat destruction. To allow them to recover, try these abundant, environmentally friendly alternatives.
IF YOU LIKE... Chilean seabass (firm, buttery) Red snapper (mild, flaky, versatile) California or Oregon wild salmon (rich, meaty) Bluefin tuna (meaty yet clean-tasting)
Striped Bass Fillets on Garlic Toasts with Arugula–White Bean Salad
This dish, from Los Angeles–based food stylist Valerie Aikman-Smith, is substantial but light, with a refresh- ing, summery salad underneath it. If you’d prefer skin- less fillets, by all means use them, but be aware that the delicate edges may break up a bit without the skin there to hold them together.
SERVES 8 | TIME 1 hour
8 slices (1 in. thick) crusty bread, such as pugliese, cut on a diagonal ⁄3
3⁄4 1⁄4
tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more for sprinkling
2 garlic cloves, cut in half 2 lemons 1 can (15 oz.) cannellini or other white beans, drained and rinsed
8 skin-on, boned striped bass or Pacific cod fillets (6 to 8 oz. each) 8 cups arugula leaves (about 1
⁄3
1 cup store-bought black olive tapenade 8 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
⁄2
1. Preheat broiler. Put bread slices on a large baking sheet; brush both sides with oil, using about 6 tbsp. total, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Broil bread on both sides until golden and crunchy, about 2 minutes per side. When toasts are cool enough to handle, rub each on one side with garlic halves. Reset oven temperature to 325°.
lb.)
About 3 cups mixed red and yellow cherry tomatoes, halved
TRY... Black cod (aka sablefish, butterfish) Farmed striped bass, U.S.-farmed tilapia or rainbow trout Alaska wild salmon, Arctic char
U.S.-caught bigeye tuna (ahi), Pacific albacore (troll- or pole-caught), U.S.-caught yellowfin tuna (also called ahi)
2. Zest 1 lemon to yield 1 tsp. finely shredded zest, then cut lemon in half and squeeze to yield 2 tsp. juice. Cut other lemon into 8 wedges. In a large bowl, whisk together 3
⁄4 tsp. salt, 1 ⁄4 tsp. pepper, lemon zest, lemon
About 2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling
tsp. sea salt or kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
juice, and 2 tbsp. oil. Add beans and toss gently to mix. Set aside. 3. With a very sharp knife, make shallow slashes about 1 in. apart in skin of fillets. Season fillets with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tbsp. oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat until hot. Add 4 fillets skin side down, reduce heat to medium, and cook 5 to 6 minutes, pressing often with a spatula to keep them as flat as possible; turn over and cook another 2 minutes. Trans- fer to a baking sheet and reserve pan juices in a bowl. Wipe pan clean with paper towels and cook remaining fillets the same way, using another 1 tbsp. oil, reserving pan juices, and transferring fillets to baking sheet. Put fish in oven and cook until done, about 8 minutes (cut to check). 4. Add arugula and tomatoes to beans and toss gently but thoroughly. Divide salad among plates. 5. Set toasts on salads, garlicky side up. Top with fillets, skin side up. Drizzle each fillet with a bit of pan juice, then top with 1 tbsp. tapenade, a parsley sprig, and a drizzle of oil. Garnish each plate with a lemon wedge. Drizzle some oil over each. Make Ahead: Wash arugula the night before and chill, wrapped in a kitchen towel and stored in a resealable plastic bag. Make toasts (grilled instead of broiled if you like) a day ahead and keep in an airtight container. Vinaigrette can be made up to a week ahead and chilled. Fish can be seared (2 to 3 minutes per side in a hot pan) shortly before dinner, then all fillets put in a 350° oven on a baking sheet for about 8 minutes to finish cooking (an easy way to get all 8 servings ready at once).
PER SERVING: 510 cal., 46% (234 cal.) from fat; 46 g protein; 26 g fat (3 g sat.); 20 g carbo (3 g fiber); 916 mg sodium; 73 mg chol.
fish & shellfish 5
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