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Sole food


This very British dish out-chips the competition, says Marco Pierre White


Why on earth anyone would want to be anywhere else on the planet in June than Britain is quite beyond me. Call me nostalgic and sentimental, but nothing quite compares with Blighty at this time of year— although I do admit that as I get older I’m also getting more nostalgic. Food is full of memories for me, as it is for most people. And just thinking about fish fingers brings me out in goosebumps. It’s a meal to really savour in June, as long as you don’t go down the frozen fish finger route. I remember when friends came for tea in our council


house in Leeds and they were given fish fingers (although I can’t swear that they were made fresh). Boys had all sorts of different ways of eating them. Some, who obviously didn’t like fish, would scrape off the batter and eat it with relish. Then they would mash up the fish and either hide it under the fork or scatter it about the plate so it looked as if they had eaten it. Others—but not many— did it the other way, leaving the batter and devouring the fish. What I’m suggesting here is using Dover sole, and it’s one of the very few instances when filleting this prized fish before cooking is acceptable. Absolutely crucial, too, are the Big Chips—and I mean big. None of those flimsy McDonald’s things that taste of salt and not much else. I serve this meal with tartare sauce rather than ketchup, which lifts it from the ordinary to the extraordinary. Fish fingers are one of life’s simple pleasures; do them justice this June.


Marco Pierre White is donating his fee for this column to Macmillan Cancer Support.


DOVER SOLE AND BIG CHIPS


(serves 6) 3x 450–500g Dover soles, skinned and filleted 300g plain flour, seasoned 3 eggs, beaten 500g fine breadcrumbs I litre vegetable oil for deep-fat frying 6 Désirée potatoes To serve tartare sauce 3 lemons, halved a few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley


salt and pepper


Big chips 1. Set the deep-fat fryer to 130°C and add half the vegetable oil (or use a deep-sided saucepan). Peel the potatoes and cut into chips about 1cm by 6cm. Rinse the cut potatoes under cold running water to remove excess starch. Pat dry with a clean cloth. 2. Blanch the chips in the pre-heated fryer for 5–8 minutes until soft all the way to the centre. 3. Remove and allow to


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CLIVE BOZZARD-HILL


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