with an alcohol content of between 15 and 17 percent. Premium sakes tend to taste best slightly chilled, but there is no one ideal serving temperature—it can be served warm, but not too hot! Sake has traditionally been consumed in either a small china cup (when hot) or in a masu, a square cedar cup (when cold). In this country, connoisseurs favor a wine glass, but in Japan, the traditional masu is used almost exclusively.
T
he sake from Japan is generally the best, but there is plenty of drinkable sake brewed in the U.S., such as Oregon-brewed G Genshu
Sake from SakeOne ($30). It has a fruity flavor and a spicy finish, and is a good way to start exploring the vast world of sake. Our Japanese favorites include Kotsuzumi Rojohanaari, a crystal-clear sake with a smooth taste from start to finish ($150). Kubota Manju Daiginjo is a highly regarded rice wine, and is accented by a subtle vanilla flavor ($100). Dassai Migaki Niwari Sanbu—also known as Dassai 23 for the amount of rice that remains after the milling process—has a delicate fruity aroma and a refined taste ($70).
Otokoyama Tokubetsu Junmai, another global
sake favorite, is faint amber in color and has an agreeable sweetness balanced by dryness ($115). Pairing sake with food is an inexact science that calls for an adventurous spirit, but there are some very general guidelines to keep in mind. Sakes with a fruity aroma make an excellent aperitif, sweet sakes goes well with full-flavored dishes, while dry sakes complement fresh seafood. Traditionally, sake was an important part of such special occasions as Shinto religious festivals, wedding celebrations and New Year’s festivities. But in the same spirit that we’ve run roughshod over the rest of the world’s customs, why wait for the right moment to have a taste? After all, it’s happy hour somewhere in the world. •
Tasting Notes
Ajisen, Tokyo: Located on Tsukishima, an island that’s but a short car ride away, this legendary and cozy sake pub has 60+ selections of sake and boasts a celebrated menu of the freshest fish available.
Sakagura, NYC: Beware of judging this restaurant by its casual ambience – with over 200 bottles of sake to pair with authentic Japanese food, it is the place of serious sake drinkers in New York. Pleasure your taste buds and revel in camaraderie by sharing a few of their small plates.
Ozumo, San Francisco: Sporting a Sake Lounge with one of the widest sake selections in all of North America, this superior restaurant offers sake flights and vast sake knowledge for the new and committed sake drinker alike.
Blowfish Restaurant & Sake Bar, Toronto:
This much-reviewed and loved restaurant packs a punch with its sake list and daring sake cocktails. The menu features a fusion of traditional Japanese, French, and Pan-Asian cuisine.
Umu, London: Wrap yourself in Umu’s design of rich reds and dark woods, and then delve into the even better design of the food, with a choice of over 160 sakes to combine with the Kyoto cuisine for the perfect match at this Michelin
starred restaurant. —Kym Jones
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