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DISTRIBUTED WITH THE DAILY TELEGRAPH TUESDAY_SEPTEMBER 29_2009 restaurants
National cuisine
Catching a herring
under a fur coat
XPRESS
IRAKLI IOSEBASHVILI
PHOTO
GOURMAND

Style police Employers want to know what’s in your wardrobe
In Russian cuisine, there are which, in Russian, is provoca-
It’s suit or boot in the office
basically two types of dishes: tively named “herring under
those you immediately recog- a fur coat”. At first glance it’s
nise, and others that keep you hard to know what to make
guessing right up to the first of it. From afar it’s vaguely
bite. Most fall into the first cat- cake-like, while it is actually
From the butcher in his apron to covering what was worn, but egory: Shashlik, when you get a type of salad, with one or
the cosmonaut in his spacesuit plenty was implied. The strict down to it, is meat on a stick. more layers of salted herring,
– and at many points in between business style for men was for a Pelmeny is as Russian as a vegetables and eggs, and a
– at work you are, it seems to black, navy or gray pinstripe food can get, but is instantly topping of mayonnaise and
many, what you wear. In reality, suit with a button-down shirt familiar to anyone who has grated beetroot lending a rich
the butcher needs his apron to and sober tie. For women the ever had wontons or ravioli. purple colour… and it’s prob-
stop the blood and gore of his colour scheme was the same. Other dishes, however, ably the most popular of all
trade spoiling his nice, spotless Trouser suits are allowed, mystify even experienced Russian salads. It is found on
Levi’s and white T-shirt, and the though a straight, knee-length foreign gourmands. Such is New Year’s tables, and often
cosmonaut would be hard skirt was preferred. Long hair the popular dressed herring, at birthdays and on holidays.
pressed to boldly go without his should be tied back and make-
spacesuit. up understated.
But what’s really got the inter-
LARISA KALLIOMA
net buzzing is the addendum to
ROSSIYSKAYA GAZETA a memorandum on “The Out-
ward Appearance of Employees
Dress codes in business, and of Gazpromneft”.
dress necessities, have always Complete with pictures, this
been part of life. Think of Ro- outlines the proper length for a
mans in togas, and the yellow of woman’s hair (a “schoolteach-
imperial China. er’s bun” or short hair that must
Now, however, some large Rus- be trimmed once a month), nails ON
sian companies are seeking to (French manicures of no more
XPRESS
enforce a dress code on their than 3-5 mm, and no nail art al-
employees, and it is not being lowed), as well as the cost and PHOTO
met with unfettered enthusi- type of appropriate jewellery It may look like a cake, but it’s a delicious salad
asm. What particularly niggles, (no costume jewellery, no dan- VLADIMIR PESNI_EPSIL
apparently, is not just that some gling earrings, no jangling Some companies are now insisting that their workers dress smartly, Ingredients
employees have to buy their bracelets or rings with large and are even dictating how much must be spent on outfits 2 skinless, salted herring fil- • 1 onion • 3 eggs • 1.5 cups
own outfi ts – unlike bus drivers stones) and acceptable suits lets • 2 medium-sized beet- mayonnaise • Salt • Black
[pictured] who will get their (nothing under $500, list of de- root • 2 potatoes • 2 carrots pepper •
slick new uniforms supplied – signers and stores attached).
but the taste and quality of the Discussion of this subject be- Preparation layer of grated potatoes, salt
stuff they have to wear. came heated.“That sor t of dress Boil eggs until hard. and cover with a layer of may-
“Our corporate style is more ri- code is a form of slavery,” com- Boil carrots, potatoes and onnaise. Add a layer herring,
diculous than in a circus,” wrote mented one internet chat par- beetroots until tender. then onions, carrots and eggs,
a visitor to superjob.ru.“W omen ticipant. Peel onions, then steep in boil- salting each layer and top-
have to wear yellow and blue Incidentally, some companies ing water. After 5 minutes, pour ping it with a coating of may-
striped men’s ties, plaid school- have an official jeans day. On into a strainer and hold onions onnaise. Repeat the process,
girl skirts of terrible quality, Fridays, ahead of the weekend, under cold water for 1 minute. without herring, until you have
and shapeless knit vests instead employees can come to work in
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Let boiled vegetables cool. at least two layers.
of jackets.” jeans and sweaters. Clean potatoes and carrots and Cover everything with a layer
This was the response to inter- According to Superjob.ru, 35pc
Y_PHOTO
grate into separate bowls. of grated beetroot, on top of
net portal superjob.ru’s recent- of all Russian companies still Peel and grate beetroots in a which you spread a thick coat-
ly conducted poll which uncov- allow employees to wear what separate bowl. ing of mayonnaise. A final layer
ered the unwritten rules of Rus- they want. Tell that to the cos- ANTON BELITSK Remove shells and grate eggs. of grated egg yolk can be add-
sian companies’ dress codes. Al- monaut when he’s got to fi x the In early September, Mosgortrans (Moscow Urban Transportation) Chop herring into small pieces ed for decoration.
most a third of respondents said outside plumbing on his space instituted a trial dress code. All bus, tram and trolley drivers will and add pepper. Refrigerate for 5 hours and
that there were no official rules station.
-
wear identical uniforms until the end of this year On a large plate, spread out a serve in slices, like a cake.
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