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Alone Across the Atlantic S


ADVENTURE AND ART INTERSECT AT THE POINT OF INSPIRATION » BY JAMES RAFFAN


ooner or later, everybody who owns a canoe scans the boat in the rosy light of


evening and wonders what adventures it has been on and what future odysseys are in store. A trip upstream to the source of the local river? A trip across the country? In a nation of rivers like Canada, it’s easy to think that with the right boat, the proper gear, enough food and dollop of daring and ingenuity, epic journeys are possible for any- one willing to take a risk. And then there’s John Smith of Peterbor-


ough. It was the spring of 1934. Smith, 34, had


spent the previous five years being a whaler and merchant mariner. But he had returned home to realize a dream that had been brew- ing in his fertile mind since his early adult years working for the Peterborough Canoe Company. Te dream was simple. He would paddle a 16-foot cedar-canvas canoe, called “Pride of Peterborough,” from Peterborough, Ontario, to Peterborough, England—solo across the Atlantic. Really. He would load the boat with 500


pounds of fresh water and hard tack, sew a canvas cover to keep waves at bay. All in, he would leave the George Street wharf on the Otonabee River in June and, in two to three months, would be relaying personal greet- ings to family and friends in Ireland. Ten onward across the Irish Sea to Peterborough, Cambridgeshire, on the River Nene. And that’s exactly what he set out to do. Te reporter who broke the story in the


16 SUMMER/FALL 2009


Peterborough Examiner was initially skepti- cal. But Smith’s shy demeanour and earnest determination convinced him otherwise. “Yes sir, Smith is serious,” he wrote. “For the past eight months… he has been ana- lyzing carefully the various problems in- volved. And right now he is busy seeking a canoe of the proper type and arranging for the food rations and equipment he will carry with him.”


he would paddle a 16-foot canoe solo across the atlantic


Smith… well… didn’t make it. He’s bur-


ied in an unmarked grave near Stephenville, Newfoundland. He made his way safely to the tip of the Gaspé Peninsula and, from there, struck out into the open waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to make the 435-kilo- metre crossing to Newfoundland. His journal, which turned up as beach


flotsam in a waterproofed tin can, detailed that partway over he stopped aboard a freighter whose captain gave him a hot meal, a mariner’s rubber safety suit and a map and sent him on his way again. Some- where between there and Newfoundland, Smith came a cropper. His body washed up in one place, his surf- bashed canoe in another, the tin can con-


taining his journal in another; all pieces of Smith’s impossible dream. It was on those beaches that Smith’s story


would have faded into obscurity had it not been for two Peterborough artists who have kept the tale alive. Singer and songwriter Glen Caradus pre-


miered a splendid new ballad about John Smith at a concert at Te Canadian Canoe Museum earlier this year. When asked, he allowed that he was inspired to write the song by an art installation created by Mount Pleasant, Ontario, artist JoEllen Brydon. In the early 1990s, Brydon was pulling up


flooring in her 19th-century farmhouse and came upon old newspapers that included a June, 1934 edition of the Peterborough Ex- aminer. So captivated was she by Smith’s story that she created a whole art installa- tion around the tale—18 paintings installed on a wall behind a 1930s-style diner coun- ter where visitors can sit on padded chrome stools and read reprints of the Smith story as it appeared back in the day. Tis work is now in the Museum of Civilization in Ottawa. Not only do we need John Smiths for in-


spiration, we also need artists like Caradus and Brydon to keep their stories alive. Te stories they tell remind us that epic journeys of discovery, whatever the vehicle, whatever the goal, begin far closer to home than most of us ever imagine. All it takes is a dream.


JAMES RAFFAN is the executive director of the Canadian Canoe Museum.


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