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11
Covering the Case
Set your ¾” tool (a strip of binder’s board cut ¾” Trim each of the four corners to a 45° angle. Cut a scrap from one of the parent sheets to just thin-
wide) against the text block and on top of the muslin ner than the width of the spine and the same length
cloth as shown; trim the cloth along the ¾” tool to as the muslin cloth. Glue in place on the spine, set
get uniform cloth edges. weights on top and let dry an hour.
Cut a piece of book cloth (or fabric backed with HeatnBond and covered with kitakata paper) 1” larger on all Pull away the scratch paper, flip the case over and set
sides than the case and place it face down on your work surface. Cover the cloth with scratch paper and place it in the middle of the book cloth.
10
Making the Case
a large piece of muslin cloth nearby. Set your case on the scratch paper with the spine piece up and quickly
paint glue from the center out.
Cut two pieces of binder’s board ¼” narrower and Cut a scrap of paper from one of the parent sheets Flip the spine piece over (so the binder’s board is on
Turn the book cloth over, set the muslin on top Turn the covered case back over and trim off all the For the corners, measure ¼” out from each corner
¼” taller than your text block – so for my 6 x 8” to the same height as the spine, plus 1” on each side; the underside) and draw two lines, using the marks
and use a bone folder to smooth out any air bub- excess book cloth using the ¾” tool as a guide. and cut at a 45° angle.
book, I cut the binder’s board to 5 ¾ x 8 ¼”. These glue the spine piece to the center. Now you’ll mea- you made on the other side as a guide.
bles, working from the middle outwards (the mus-
are your covers or the books “case.” Cut another sure for the grooves beside the spine that allow the
lin helps protect the cover from bone folder scuff
piece of binder’s board for the spine. It should be book to open. Set two pieces of binder’s board verti-
marks). Make sure to get into the grooves where the
exactly as wide as the spine of the text block and cally against the spine piece and mark your paper
covers attach to the spine piece.
exactly as high as the covers. Label the pieces “front,” ¼” beyond that (at the top and bottom). Repeat on
“back” and “spine.” the other side.
Place the ¾” tool along the lines and trim along the With the binder’s board still on the underside, glue Place the text block inside to make sure everything At this stage, the inside of your book cover should Place scratch paper under the case. Working from Use your fingers to fold the fabric over the board and
opposite side of the tool, leaving ¾” of paper on the front and back covers to the paper edges, lining fits. You should have ⅛” of binder’s board exposed on look like this. the center of the flap outwards, apply glue to the set it in place.
the outside of each line. them up with the pencil lines. Keep everything per- each side (except the spine). This protects the paper fabric and fold it over the binder’s board. Glue the
fectly straight by butting the top of the pieces against from everyday wear and tear and gives the book a fin- top and bottom flaps first, then the sides.
a ruler. ished look. If you have an overhang of more than ⅛”,
118
trim the covers carefully. If the overhang is less, you
may want to backtrack a bit and cut a new cover and
119
spine.
IB MiniAlbums_071-162.indd 118 3/19/08 11:31:20 PM IB MiniAlbums_071-162.indd 119 3/26/08 12:30:17 PM
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