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8
Making the Rolled Headband
Place the fourth signature on top, along with a Continue making a herringbone stitch at each tape NOTE: If you run out of thread, add more by tying
weight. Go inside the kettle station directly above station, working right to left, until you come out the a square knot while you are on the outside of the
the last kettle station. far left kettle station. signature. This way, the knot can be covered by the
binding and won’t show inside the finished book. Cut waxed linen thread to 5” (longer for a thicker Apply glue to the fabric and center it under the Use a bone folder to push the thread to the very top
book) and place a weight on each end. Cut a piece weighted thread. Fold the cloth in half over the and make a ridge. Trim the excess string and cut the
of fabric to 3 x 1 ½” (longer if needed), and back it thread. piece in half, one for each end of the spine. (Each
with HeatnBond by Therm O Web, which protects piece should be a tiny bit smaller than the width of
the cloth from the glue. This fabric should coordi- the spine.) Set aside to dry.
nate with your book cover, as it will be just visible at
the top and bottom of the spine.
9
Lining the Spine
Make a kettle stitch through the thread linking the Continue stitching signatures together, with her-
two signatures below (in this case, the 2nd and 3rd ringbone stitches between each tape station and
signatures). Close the signature and use a bone folder kettle stitches at each kettle station. As you come out
to crease against the spine edge. The next kettle stitch the last kettle station of the last signature, make two
will be between the 3rd and 4th signatures, the next kettle stitches to finish it off. Trim the excess thread.
between the 4th and 5th signatures, and so on.”
7
Gluing the Spine
Cut a piece of kitakata paper the exact width of the Use a bone folder and your fingers to press the kita- Paint glue from each kettle station to the ends of
spine and just shorter than the length. Paint a thin kata paper in place. Let dry 15 minutes. the spine.
layer of glue on the spine, then add the kitakata
paper.
Your spine edge should be perfectly flat. If it’s not, With your block still between the boards, dip a brush When the glue is almost dry (about 15 minutes), rub
sandwich the text block between two pieces of bind- in PVA adhesive and glue the spine in a circular mo- a bone folder along the spine to flatten the signatures
er’s board and slam it (spine edge down) on the table tion, getting down in all the ridges. Apply the glue and make them all flush with each other. Paint an-
a few times. fairly generously – for this part, it’s better to have other layer of glue straight across. Place weights on
Set the rolled headbands in place, with their ridges Let dry another 15 minutes. While drying, cut a Paint another thin layer of glue over the spine and
too much than not enough. Clean your brush thor- the text block (about 30 lbs) and let dry overnight.
flush with the ends of the spine. piece of muslin cloth 2” wider than the spine and add the muslin cloth, using your fingers and bone
oughly before the glue hardens; wipe it on a sponge.
the same length as the kitakata paper. folder to really get it into the grooves. Let dry 15
minutes.
116 117
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