DESTINATION TRIPS are the most straightforward, where you launch and land in roughly the same place and paddle around for a week or so in between. Pop- ular destinations include three national marine parks with islands: Bahia de Los Angeles—or Bay of L.A.— (1,013 km or 630 road miles from Tijuana), Bahia de Loreto (1,700 km or 1,100 miles) and Espiritu Santo (near La Paz, 2,414 km or 1,500 miles). Recently pro- tected for their uniqueness, fragility and abundance of life, these parks also manage kayakers. Permits are about $4 US per person per day and can be bought in the park office in the respective towns.


SAMPLE TRIP: Circumnavigate Carmen Island, Loreto


ACCESS: Loreto International Airport. Recommended launch: Puerto Escondido, 24 km (15 miles) south of town via taxi.


KAYAKS: Local rentals to appropriately skilled individuals; custom guided trips; scheduled outfitter trips.


LENGTH: 120 km (65 nautical miles), 8–10 paddling days.


PERMITS: Parque Nacional Bahia de Loreto. VHF radio required.


HIGHLIGHTS: White limestone fossil formations on the south end of the island and in Marquer Bay, historic salt village, spectacular geology on the rugged northeast end, excellent wildlife viewing opportunities.


1.


WHEN TO GO Consider three things: weather, tourist season and whale migration. If you want to rent a kayak, customize a trip or enjoy the illegal art of sunbathing naked, avoid peak tourist season between February and early May. If you want to see gray whales, come in February. (This will be done by motorboat, since kayaks are excluded from Pacific whale watching areas.) For Sea of Cortez whales, try January into early March. To avoid the worst winds, paddle in November or late March through early May. Mid-May through mid-October is extremely hot.


FYI 40 ADVENTURE KAYAK | SPRING 2009


WIND & WAVES Late November through mid-March is the season of El Norte, infamous north winds that blow up with little warning. In recent years Internet forecasts have taken some guesswork out of the weather, but when you’re out there on your own, it helps to understand some patterns. The Norte is generated by a thermal high in southern California (Santa Ana conditions) and a low somewhere south of Baja. A three-millibar differential is a fine paddling day. Eleven millibars is fine hiking. A wind that shifts from south to west, then pauses, is


DESTINATION TRIPS


EXPERIENCE SEZ: The steep north end is exposed to wind and swell. Choose your weather window wisely for this crux move—it’s 37 km (20 nautical miles) between protected landings. On calm days, access can be had at four or five beaches along the way. Carry water, organize a resupply boat, desalinate, or take your chances at the salt village or from yachts.


PLANNING YOUR BAJA TRIP


another warning. It doesn’t always follow that pattern, though. If the sea is calm and without local wind, swells begin from the north—that’s the wind pushing waves ahead of it. When a dark band on the northern horizon starts growing thicker, then obscures the coastline, that’s dust particles in the air, and you might have 30 minutes to get to shelter. When you finally see the wind line on the water, pray. Or surf southward. A Norte can hit any time of day or night. There is no coast guard or rescue organization. The Sea of Cortez is often a balmy, relaxing paddle. But


like most places, it has that dark side. Be a prepared paddler. Embrace the wind if you get it (it will return the favour regardless!). Plan flexibility into your schedule so you don’t have to make that unwise crossing. Know your limits, and be constantly aware of the weather. Get forecasts whenever you can. On the Pacific, the prevailing afternoon winds are


northwest. El Norte tends to blow offshore, making it especially hazardous. November through March is generally the season of the northwest swell, and April through October brings southwest swell.


Weather information is available from Loreto Yachters


Net on VHF channel 22 at 8 a.m. daily. Also: iwindsurf.com, bajainsider.com, weatherunderground.com and sailflow.com.


TIDES Mid-gulf tides only vary about 1.2 metres (4 feet). Northern gulf tides stole expedition paddler Michael Mead’s new Looksha IV off the beach during the first week of his trip, after he had dragged it a half-mile from the water. Find tidal info online. I’ve not found any published data on currents. Local information is invaluable.


RAIN Baja rains fall infrequently and desert rainbows are worth every drop.


TRAVEL Carry a valid passport. A tourist visa is required, costing $20 US for six months. You will be issued one on the plane if you fly; the cost is included in the flight. In the past, it’s been okay to obtain one once you’ve driven into the country. You can also get it ahead of time at a local consulate.


PHOTO: GINNI CALLAHAN


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