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TANTALISING TRIESTE


The Italian port city has blossomed from frontier post at the edge of the Balkans into a vibrant, cultural hub - with excellent seafood


ATELIER LIDIA POLLA A pretty, charming B&B. Their rooms are dressed with a nod at vintage design, incorporating an eclectic selection of odds and ends like antique wardrobes, golf leaf-framed mirrors and showpiece contemporary headboards. Bathrooms are private but not en suite. www.atelierlidiapolla.com


SEVEN HISTORICAL SUITES STAY URBAN HOTEL DESIGN


A thoroughly renovated 16th-century building, with 62 minimalist (and I mean minimalist...) rooms of white walls, designer lighting and funky coloured chairs. Good location and good value. www.urbanhotel.it


L’ALBERO NASCOSTO Tucked away in a well located street in the medieval old town, this narrow 10-room apart-hotel (no lift) exudes charm; simple but classy with wood floors, and is rather nice, nice, nice! www.alberonascosto.it


SAVOIA EXCELSIOR PALACE A stone’s throw away from Piazza Unità, this grand and elegant waterfront hotel is beautifully decorated, has spacious rooms, marble bathrooms and sleek furnishings. Dig deep for an upgrade for a sea-view room. It’s definitely worth it. www.starhotels.com


130 | SPRING 2019 | ONBOARD


A range of suites to suit your guest numbers and budget. Nicely decorated, some funky room designs, a decent place to stay with good value options. A classy option for some time away from the typical hotel experience. www.seventrieste.com


EAT DA PEPE


The chefs in this noisy and vibrant buffet experience, will fix a platter of mixed cold cuts, predominantly pork, in minutes. Add sauerkraut and a beer and it’s little more than a crisp €10 note €€ | via Cassa di Risparmio 3


NETTARE DI VINO


There is no menu at this relaxed, antique winebar-style restaurant in a former warehouse. Waiters will explain the daily changing choice: perhaps ‘jota’ (bean and sauerkraut soup), beef tartare or spaghetti with home-made pesto €€€ | via Diaz 6b


OSTERIA ISTRIANO


Beyond the waterfront’s noisy bars this unsophisticated osteria rewards with simple, home-cooked fish. Relax and take the weight off your feet in this no nonsense traditional eatery. €€€ | Riva Grumula 6


AL BAGATTO


Despite its faded interior, this restaurant serves seafood cooked with flair while traditional dishes such as salt-cod are given a stylish twist €€€€ | Via Cadorna 7


ALLA SORGENTE


Hard to find and small with around 8 tables outside, terrific for a vibrant and


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