Analysis
in solving some of the fashion industry’s greatest issues and we look forward to engaging brands with our technology.”
Leather properties
Above: BSF Enterprise is a biotech investor that owns 3DBT, a UK-based bio-tech start-up
Above right: Emily Telford, senior R&D scientist at 3DBT
Previous page: Che Connon, the managing director of BSF Enterprise
Speaking ahead of the Future Fabrics Expo event, senior research and development scientist at 3DBT, Dr Emily Telford, said: “We are really excited to be working with the University of Northampton to merge our innovative bioengineered skin with their vast knowledge of traditional leather processing techniques. We believe this initiative will address the growing demand for both conventional and alternative leathers as we strive for a more sustainable future.”
Northampton University’s Professor of Leather Science, Professor Will Wise, added: “This project has far-reaching scope – it will allow us to understand more about the fundamentals of collagen modification as well as developing a new biomaterial for commercial use. It is fantastic to be a part of it, and to work in close partnership with 3D-Biotissues to achieve their goals.” Dr Che Connon, managing director of BSF Enterprise, a biotech investor that owns 3DBT, said: “We are delighted to present this high- quality lab-grown leather, which we believe has the potential to meet the ever-increasing demand for animal-conscious alternative leather products. The product we have unveiled… demonstrates the potential of our tissue engineering technology
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As with any leather alternative, the ultimate question is whether it displays the properties of traditional leather. Connon has no doubt that 3DBT’s product has the same characteristics. Having felt other leather alternatives, he believes that 3DBT’s solution compares favourably to them. “It has a nice robustness to it,” he says. “It will wear the same as leather, it will have the same visual appeal, the patination, the way that it marks and the way that it ages – all of those things will be there as they are in traditional leather.” Connon says that this is to be expected because the material originates from 100% animal tissue. “If you start with the right material, then the process will result in leather. So it’s not surprising,” says Connon, who states that representatives from several leading luxury goods companies have also handled the 3DBT’s samples and agree with his assessment that it “feels like leather”. One collaborator, he adds, has also tanned, stitched and embossed it, and was pleased with the results. 3DBT claims that what sets its solution apart from other leather alternatives is that no additional supporting materials, such as plastics or cellulose, were used in the final product.
“The uniqueness is in the fact that it doesn’t contain any other scaffolding materials or any other backing materials, any structural materials,” says Connon. “There are other approaches to bio leather using a cellulose scaffold or some other synthetic material, which the cells can be seeded onto, but then… you’re left with a structural feeling of cellulose, for example – not the structural feel of leather, which is collagen and elastin. And so ours just contains collagen, elastin
Leather International /
www.leathermag.com
3DBT
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