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Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Deputy Editor: Glen Mutel Senior Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro Associate Editor: Sarah Barrell Assistant Editors: Amelia Duggan, Tamsin Wressell Digital Development Manager: Seamus McDermott Online Editor: Josephine Price Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Emma Holland, Charlotte Wigram-Evans Project Manager: Natalie Jackson Art Director: Chris Hudson Art Editor: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Lead Designer: Daniel Almeroth Production Manager: Daniel Gregory


Special Projects Consultant: Matthew Midworth Business Development Team: William Allen, Adam Fox, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, Glyn Morgan, Adam Phillips, Mark Salmon, John Stergides, Jon Stone Head of National Geographic Traveller — The Collection: Danny Pegg


Contributing Editors: Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry, Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova Editorial Assistant: Connor McGovern Sub Editors: Lorraine Griffi ths, Ben Murray Designers: Gabriella Finney, Lauren Gamp, Philip Lay Production Controllers: Maia Abrahams, Joaquim Pereira, Lisa Poston, Joanne Roberts, Anthony Wright APL Business Development Team: Neil Bhullar, Chris Dalton, Cynthia Lawrence, Sinead McManus


Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens Managing Director: Matthew Jackson Sales Director: Alex Vignali Sales Administrator: Elizabeth Scott Executive Assistant: Taylah Brooke Financial Controller: Ryan McShaw Credit Manager: Craig Chappell Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover Accounts Assistants: Jana Abraham, Stefano Pica


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL. natgeotraveller.co.uk Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk Subscriptions: T: 01293 312166. natgeotraveller@inter-media.co.uk


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2017 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.


Editor’s letter


W National Geographic Traveler (US)


Editor-in-Chief: George W. Stone Publisher & Vice President, Global Media: Kimberly Connaghan Senior Director, Travel & Adventure: Andrea Leitch Design Director: Marianne Seregi Director of Photography: Anne Farrar Editorial Projects Director: Andrew Nelson Senior Editor: Jayne Wise Features Editor: Amy Alipio Associate Editor: Hannah Sheinberg Senior Producers: Christine Blau, Sarah Polger Editor/Producer: Lindsay Smith Producer: Mary McGrory Multimedia Producers: Adrian Coakley, Jess Mandia Associate Producer: Caity Garvey Deputy Art Director: Leigh V. Borghesani Associate Photo Producer: Jeff Heimsath Chief Researcher: Marilyn Terrell Production Director: Kathie Gartrell Editorial Assistants: Gulnaz Khan, Alexandra E. Petri Copy Editors: Preeti Aroon, Cindy Leitner, Mary Beth Oelkers-Keegan, Ann Marie Pelish Market Research Manager: Tracy Hamilton Stone Communications Vice President: Heather Wyatt


Communications Director: Meg Calnan Senior Vice President, Global Media & Experiences: Yulia P. Boyle Senior Director, International Publishing: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Senior Manager, International Publishing: Rossana Stella Editorial Specialist: Leigh Mitnick


National Geographic Society


President & CEO: Gary E. Knell Board of Trustees Chairman: Jean N. Case Vice Chairman: Tracy R. Wolstencroft


National Geographic Partners


CEO: Declan Moore Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg Chief Financial Offi cer: Marcela Martin Chief Communications Offi cer: Laura Nichols Chief Marketing Offi cer: Jill Cress Strategic Planning & Business Development: Whit Higgins Consumer Products & Experiences: Rosa Zeegers Digital Product: Rachel Webber Global Networks CEO: Courteney Monroe Legal & Business Affairs: Jeff Schneider Sales & Partnerships: Brandan Ripp Board of Directors Chairman: Peter Rice


Copyright © 2017 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National Geographic Traveler: Registered Trademark. Printed in the UK.


@stacava Contents


04 Map 06 Wild Atlantic Way 08 Culture 10 Big picture 12 Hiking routes 14 Meet the makers 16 Learning to surf 18 Alternative activities


SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK ON FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+ TUMBLR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM Donegal 2017 3


ild is the word that best describes Donegal. Geographically all but cut off from the rest of the Republic by


Northern Ireland, the northwesterly county is marked by dramatic landscapes carved out by heavy Atlantic swells and fi erce winds — a place where you don’t have to travel very far to be completely alone. Donegal holds enormous appeal for


intrepid travellers, so it was no surprise it took the top spot in our Cool List 2017. With a sea stack-dotted coast, Blue Flag beaches and rugged off shore islands, it begs to be explored — so we sent writer Zoë McIntyre and photographer Alecsandra Raluca Dragoi there to do just that. They drove the twisting ribbon of road that is the Wild Atlantic Way (p.6), hiked the Blue Stack Mountains (p.12) and surfed the breakers at Bundoran (p.16). The result is this defi nitive guide to one of Europe’s great wildernesses.


STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO, EDITOR


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