SMART TRAVELLER


ON THE TRAIL YUCATÁN


A drive through the heartland of Mexico’s Mayan culture reveals natural wonders both above and below ground Words: Tamsin Wressell


1 LAGUNA ROSADA


Start on the north coast, a little over an hour’s drive from Mérida, at this shocking-pink natural lagoon. The cause of the salt lake’s bright colour is a type of algae that creates a rosy tint — both to the water and those who eat it, namely the large, resident flock of wild flamingos here. Don’t forget your camera; as well as the lake itself, the banks are scattered with spectacular archaeological ruins.


2 EL CASTILLO


Stop off at a vendor in the city of Mérida for eggs and deep- fried tostadas before driving on to the ruins of El Castillo, in the centre of the Chichén Itzá archaeological site. A Mesoamerican step-pyramid, rising to a height of almost 80ſt, it’s the best-known structure at the site. Time your visit to coincide with the equinox, when shadows cast down the pyramid’s sides form a golden serpent sliding down the steps.


3 BALANKANCHÉ CAVES


Four miles away, the Balankanché Caves are oſten referred to as the gateway to the Mayan underworld, the meeting grounds between humans and the divine. The network of caves was once used as a sanctuary to praise Chaas, the Mayan god of rain. Hidden within a lush jungle, the subterranean system is a dramatic sight to behold, with enormous stalagmites and stalactites meeting in the cave’s main chamber.


4 YOKDZONOT CENOTE Make your way to the Yokdzonot Cenote, a subterranean pocket of water framed by hanging vines. The peninsula is pocked with cenotes (cavernous underground reservoirs) and this freshwater sinkhole is in an ecological park run by 18 local Mayan women. There’s a small fee to enter the park (£6) but once you’re in, you can take a dip and bask in the leafy beauty of the Maya jungle. Fuel up aſter a swim at the small on-site restaurant.


5 RESERVA ECOLÓGICA EL CORCHITO Continue back up to the coast to this wetland nature reserve, which is home to incredible natural features such as pools, cenotes and mangrove swamps, plus wildlife including coatis, turtles and crocodiles. The Mayans believed the waters here had healing properties and there are three cenotes you can swim in, with a shallower one (Cenote Helechos) that’s ideal for families with young children.


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6 SCORPION REEF Head out on a boat to Scorpion Reef — a cluster of coral islands in the Gulf of Mexico. The reef, which is a designated marine park, is a great diving spot — various species of coral have grown here over thousands of years to create one vast, extensive reef. There are cabins to sleep in on Isla Perez, the largest of the islands, with a handful of operators offering multi-day tours out to explore the area. wanderlum.com


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ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE


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