4 SUN CARE DAILY SKIN DEFENSE FOOT SPA MAUI MILK FOOT SPA


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after 30 minutes with the formulations without clay. Especially with the Maui milk, where the formulation without clay has completely disappeared into the avocado. We achieved the same results for formulations containing Luxe WN compared to the ones containing no clay, but with the emulsifiers.


Testing SPF boosting effects: scientific and creative approaches! The combination of rheology, application and stability should give us the ultimate goal of SPF boosting. Elementis chemists are sharing the results of in vitro testing – along with a creative approach to early in vivo testing! Here are some results of in vitro testing: Our chemists also wanted to know how


improved film structure and integrity can affect the hydrophobicity of products. We measured the contact angle of a water droplet on a glass slide with the sunscreen applied to it. A larger contact angle means that the water sits more on the film, whereas a smaller contact angle means it spreads more. Formulations with a contact angle above 30° can give an indication of hydrophobicity. Our chemists did not include data on Hydroclays because they are water-based thickeners and do not affect the hydrophobicity of products. With the Daily Skin Defense Lotion


formulation, we have increased the contact angle of the water droplet for the sunscreen with Gel TN V by 20%. For the Maui Milk formulation with Gel HS V, chemists achieved a nearly 60% increase in the contact angle. Because all the formulations without Elementis’s natural clay-based Gel contain the ingredients of the gel - just without the clay, one will see the pure effect of the clay and not the oil in the gel. With Luxe WN, chemists achieved the same boosting effect, with a 90% increase in the contact angle for the UV Blocking protector and a six times higher contact angle for the Solar Skin Frosting. Still, our chemists wanted to show SPF


boosting capabilities in real life. Initial testing was performed utilising a foot spa


PERSONAL CARE Reprinted from May 2021 MAUI MILK AFTER WASHING


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Before Figure 4: In vitro testing images.


to evaluate the water resistance in vivo. Sunscreens were applied to their feet and left to dry for 20 minutes, then put in a foot spa with turbulence for 40 minutes. Afterwards, photos were taken of their feet utilizing the sunscreen device. See the examples (Fig 4) demonstrating the Daily Skin Defense Lotion after the tester’s feet were submerge in the foot spa which show that Elementis’s natural clay-based Gel can still be clearly seen on the foot. Typically, when this product is rubbed properly into the skin, it does not leave a white finish; however, this was done here for the visual effect. For the Maui Milk, one can see how much


better the sample with Gel HS V is after washing compared to the sample without clay as well as how much of the lotion has been lost with the sample without clay.


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Conclusion Natural clays provide numerous benefits to consumers who are seeking sun care products that address the current megatrends and deliver on the sun protection claims. Formulators can incorporate a wide range of clay ingredients to create elegant and novel textures while giving stability and enhancing the efficiency of the overall product.


ABOUT THE AUTHORS


Authors of this article are members of the Elementis Personal Care team based in the United States and Europe: Kate Waterman, Global Technical Services Manage; Christina Schenatzky, Applications Specialist; and Silke Valentin, Global Applied Research Manager.


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