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INSIDE NMAI


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propriately represent Indigenous designs,” says Keene. “These designs, cultural markers and other representations of communities aren’t just disconnected symbols; they are connected to contemporary peoples and have a story, origin and meaning. When they are taken out of context and no respect or credit is given to the community from which they come, it is a blatant disregard of the context and living rela- tionships surrounding these images. “I am heartened, however, to see more


and more collaborations between well- known designers and up-and-coming Native designers, as well as so many Native design- ers who are creating their own spaces for Native fashion, spaces where they are able to represent themselves, their people and their community in appropriate, new and innova- tive ways,” says Keene. The Creative Collaborations session will finish the symposium, concentrating on best practices when Native designers and fashion houses work together; Eileen Karp, FIT assis- tant professor and chairperson of the Fashion Design department, will moderate. The ses- sion welcomes fashion designer and couturier Virgil Ortiz (Cochiti Pueblo), who collaborat- ed with fashion icon Donna Karan in the early 2000s, to speak about that experience. The Native Fashion Now exhibition displays Or- tiz’s work with Karan. Jessica Metcalfe (Turtle Mountain Chippewa), founder and owner of the Native fashion website, Beyond Buckskin, will explore other successful collaborations, such as Métis designer Christi Belcourt’s 2015 work with Valentino. Keene adds, “In the future, I hope to see


more collaborations, but also more Native de- signers pushing their way into the notoriously white mainstream fashion world. Incredible things happen when the power is put back into the hands of Native people to challenge stereo- types and represent ourselves as the vibrant, diverse, contemporary people that we are.” X


The symposium takes place Saturday, April 22, from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. at NMAI-New York’s Diker Pavilion. Presenters/ panelists may be subject to change; consult the Museum’s online calendar for the most up-to-date information.


Native Fashion Now is organized by the Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, Mass. The Coby Foundation Ltd. provided generous support. The New York presentation of this exhibi- tion and related programming is made possible through the generous support of Ameriprise Financial. Additional funding provided by Macy’s.


Joshua Voda is public affairs specialist for the National Museum of the American Indian in New York.


50 AMERICAN INDIAN SPRING 2017


Sho Sho Esquiro (Kaska Dene/Cree). Wile Wile Wile dress, Day of the Dead Collection, 2013. Seal, beaver tail, carp, beads, silk, rayon, and rooster feathers. Dominique Hanke (British) for Sho Sho Esquiro. Wile Wile Wile fascinator, Day of the Dead Collection, 2013. Animal skull, silk, horsehair, crinoline, flet. Peabody Essex Museum purchase with funds provided by Ellen and Steve Hoffman, 2016.


PHOTO BY THOSH COLLINS (DETAIL)


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