Natural Dyes 15


Actor Ichikawa Danzo III as


Adachi Hachiro (1762) by


Torii Kiyomitsu I, published by Urokogataya Magobei,


30.2 x 14.2 cm, and example of


benizuri-e with a three-colour


palette, commonly made between 1740s to 1765


Insights Thinking about subscribing?


Actors Matsumoto Koshiro IV as Ukita Sakingo and Sawamura Sojuro III as the Ghost of Takao, with chanters Tomimoto Itsukidayu and Tomimoto Awatayu and accompanist Sasaki Ichishiro (1788) by Torii Kiyonaga, published by Nishimuraya Yohachi, 38.8 x 26.8 cm. This is a good example of full-colour printing, nishiki-e, using beni – characteristic of prints made from 1781 to 1801


enhance the outer corners of the eyes and nails. One unusual make-up style that


became popular in the 19th century was sasa-iro beni (bamboo grass red), which was in high demand during the Bunka and Bunsei eras (1804-1830), at the end of the Edo period. Te upper lip is painted red, while the lower one appears green. Tis was achieved by using beni that also turns an iridescent green (from red) when thickly applied. Beni, at the time, was a product as expensive as gold and this fashion was, it is said, initiated by geisha who covered their lips daily to show off this luxury. Te dye was bought in cups (benizara or benichoko) that were coated inside with this precious substance. To use, it was wiped with a finger, or a wet brush, to spread on the lips in successive layers. After use, the bowl was placed upside down on the dressing table to prevent oxidation. By the late 19th and 20th


centuries, the red for cosmetics was extracted in small quantities from the safflower used by textile dyers, making it an extremely expensive product. Beni-ya were the companies that produced the paste for rouge and lipsticks and were mainly found in and around Kyoto. Te processes of pounding safflower by kneading, and rubbing the petals to make an alkaline solution from ash as well as an acid solution using ubai (smoked Japanese apricot) continued for centuries in workshops until the decline of the craft in the first quarter of the 20th century. Te situation was exacerbated by the


• A small display on the culture of beni and its link to fashion is on show at the V&A Museum in London until 31 March, 2024


• The Isehan Honten Beni Museum is devoted to the world of


beni. In Tokyo, it is run by Isehan Honten, the last remaining beni shop that continues traditions that date back to the Edo period


• The Kahoku Benibana Museum is located in Yamagata Prefecture


• Plant Dye Identification in Japanese Woodblock Prints by


Michele Derrick, et al, 2017


availability of cheaper synthetic imported dyes. However, true beni cosmetics are still made by a few specialists companies and are readily available to buy today in Japan.


White Powder Bien Senjoko by Keisai Eisen, 1815-43 © POLA Research Institute of Beauty and Culture, from the exhibition Secrets of Beauty, held at the Maison de la Culture du Japon, Paris, in 2020


PRINT EDITION


A good, old-fashioned, time-out read – delivered to your door every month


DIGITAL EDITION


When you are on the move and want access to your issues in an instant


CLICK HERE to subscribe


PRINT & DIGITAL EDITION It’s the best of both worlds


CLICK HERE for our free newsletter


SUBSCRIBE TO OUR FREE NEWSLETTER To keep up to date


SEARCH OUR ARCHIVES


Find a wealth of published articles on Asian and Islamic World art on our website


ASIAN ART asianartnewspaper.com


#AsianArtPaper Collection of beni containers, Isehan Honten Beni Museum, Tokyo. Photo: Ryoichi Toyama asianartnewspaper asianartnewspaper Asian Art Newspaper


ASIAN ART asianartnewspaper.com


ASIAN ART | NOVEMBER 2022


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24