FEATURE
its absorption. Many psittacine birds are fed a seed-based diet; seed is deficient in this vitamin. (Please refer to my book Parrots and Finches: Healthy Nutrition for more information on this topic.) The availability of UV bulbs for lamps in holders made to stand on top of a flat cage (such as a breeding cage in a birdroom) or at its side, and for table lamps (for companion birds), has made the provision of ultra-violet light so easy. One or two hours daily is enough. Prolonged exposure might damage the eyes.
Cold weather and frost-bite In outdoor birdrooms, heat is lost through windows. In cold weather when there is no need to open windows, I always tack heavy bubble-wrap over them. If the birdroom door is not a tight fit, I would suggest hanging a heavy curtain over it to cut out draughts.
One of the worst winter problems is frost- bite. This should never happen. If it does, to me it indicates a lack of care. The outcome is a painful loss of toes or even the entire foot. I once saw an aviary parakeet hanging from the roof by its beak. It had no feet, only stumps. Such neglect is totally unforgivable and can be prevented. Wide wooden perches encourage a lower roosting stance, thus feathers protect the feet. It is a crime to use metal perches.
Roosting inside In my opinion, no parrots should spend winter nights in outdoor enclosures in northern Europe. All aviaries should have an indoor part. Most members of the parrot family soon learn to enter when the carer approaches at night. I know some people will say “They prefer to roost outside!” It is just a matter of training and the right conditions. If the highest perch is in the
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