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32 GIFT


“I DRANK BECAUSE I WANTED TO DROWN MY SORROWS, BUT NOW THE DAMNED THINGS HAVE LEARNED TO SWIM.”


1913


ISBN: 9781781453414 PUBLISHING JUNE 2018


30 OPERATIONS 6 ISBN: 9781781453117 ISBN: 9781781453025 ISBN: 9781781452752 ISBN: 9781781453032 ISBN: 9781781452899


CONTRACTS POLIO


YEARS OLD


1953


LEFT LEG AMPUTATED


YEARS OLD


1954 46 47


DIES 13 JULY


YEARS OLD


+ POSSIBLY THREE MORE


ISBN: 9781781452905 BESTSELLER


JANE AUSTEN EMMA


1815


STATUS: QUIETLY POPULAR


INITIAL PRINT RUN 2,000 ISBN: 9781781453438


PUBLISHING MARCH 2019


ISBN: 9781781452912 BESTSELLER


ISBN: 9781781452929


ISBN: 9781781453100


COPIES SOLD IN TEN MONTHS


1,248


LIFE IN THE WORKROOMS


SALON HIERARCHY VENDEUSES


Specialist sewing was usually commissioned as piecework and sent out of house. Piecework could be poorly paid; in Chanel’s early days in couture, her embroidery was often done by impoverished White Russians.


not always a s


Sales ladies, often former models. HABILLEUSES


Literally ‘dressers’. Helpers to the vendeuses, they


IN 1935, CHANEL EMPLOYED 4,000 PEOPLE


= 20 WORKERS ISBN: 9781781453124 ISBN: 9781781453131 WORKROOM HIERARCHY


would fetch, carry, t and generally


fi


arrange a client to her best advantage.


PREMIERES MAINS


Literally ‘fi rst hands’. They


assigned work and undertook the most complex sewing.


SECONDES


Experienced seamstresses, who carried out the bulk of the sewing work.


PETITES MAINS


The stage between apprentice and trained seamstress, working under close direction.


ARPÈTES


Apprentices, who fetched and carried, swept up and learnt as they went.


MANNEQUINS The models, who


would show clothes to potential clients, and who would also often double as ‘fi t’ models, standing in static poses


for hours while patterns were made and fi tted onto their bodies.


NDIOR BYUMBERS


1


FAVOURITE SIBLING


Christian had two brothers and two sisters but Ginette, later known as Catherine, was his favourite. She gave him the nickname Tian. In turn, his favourite day was St Catherine’s Day. She was named a Chevalier of the Legion d’Honneur for her work with the resistance in the Second World War.


8


LUCKY NUMBER


Christian gave one of his debut lines the name ‘8’ because the tiny waist, the enhanced hips and the bigger bust looked a little like the fi gure eight.


The House of Dior was founded in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, in an eight-storey building with eight workshops, on 8 October 1946.


3


BOOKS


Christian self- penned books so he could put the record right about his life and work.


I AM A


COUTURIER (1951)


DIOR


BY DIOR: THE AUTO-


BIOGRAPHY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR (1957)


THE LITTLE DICTIONARY OF FASHION: A GUIDE TO DRESS SENSE FOR EVERY WOMAN (1954)


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