Between the Vines


Finding the right route to success


Owners of small wineries share what they’ve done to put it all together. By Susan McIver


T SUSAN MCIVER


David Rendina of Black Dog Winery in Okanagan Falls is the fourth generation of his family to make Pinot Bianco in the classic northern Italian style.


he biggest challenge facing the owners of small wineries is the wide spectrum of expertise required for success. Considerable knowledge in three general areas — viticulture, winemaking and marketing and sales — is required for basic survival, let alone a robust business. Winemaking is both a science and an art and requires careful attention to every step, from growing the grapes to closing the bottles.


Large wineries customarily engage professional winemakers. Many owners of small wineries choose to make the wine themselves while others turn to experienced professionals.


How owners make the decision on which route to follow depends on individual circumstances — interest, aptitude and background.


For David Rendina, owner of Black Dog Winery in Okanagan Falls, the answer was in his genes. “I’m the fourth generation of my family to make wine, starting with my great grandfather in Italy,” said Rendina He learned the family craft from his grandfather when he was nine years old, working in the evening.


Today, the former engineer and environmental entrepreneur makes Pinot Bianco in the classic Northern Italian style.


Andy Sarglepp of Heaven’s Gate Winery in Summerland learned to make wine as an adult from a friend.


After raising SUSAN MCIVER


Jay Drysdale brings experience as a chef and sommelier along with academic preparation and hands-on work in the cellar to his role as winemaker at Bella Wines on the Naramata Bench.


British Columbia FRUIT GROWER • Winter 2016-17


peaches for 20 years, Sarglepp switched to grapes. “The horticulture was not a problem,” he said. Making the wine, however, proved to be challenging. While establishing the vineyard, he began “hanging around” his friend Jason Fraser, winemaker at Thornhaven Estates Winery.


For a year Sarglepp helped Fraser in a win-win situation. Thornhaven got free labour while he got a free education. “I discovered that winemaking is a real fun thing to do,” he


added.


While at Thornhaven, he met wine consultant Christine Leroux, who has kept a careful eye on Heaven’s Gate’s wine since the first vintage.


“She’s awesome. She can spot a problem in one-tenth of a second,” Sarglepp said.


Dale Wright, of Eau Vivre Winery in Cawston, also learned the craft from an experienced winemaker, but came to a different conclusion regarding a consultant.


“I spent 18 months working with the previous owner. He offered to stay on as a consultant, but I haven’t called him or any other consultant,” Wright said.


He prefers to solve any problems that arise himself. A former professional geologist, Wright uses his analytical mind to find answers to the problems.


His success in doing so is demonstrated by Eau Vivre being a two-time winner of the prestigious Lieutenant


Governor’s Award for Excellence in British Columbia Wines. Some owner-winemakers obtain an academic background as well as having hands-on experience and obtaining help from knowledgeable


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