Between the Vines


Two-nation operation is one of a kind


Sonoma winery purchasemeans adjusting to some significant differences in how the industry works.


By Judie Steeves


traddling the border can be a bit of a stretch, but it’s a challenge that the Stewart family, which founded and owns Quails’ Gate Estate Winery in West Kelowna, is up for. “I believe we’re the only Canadian winery with operations in both countries. Our goal is to become the only international boutique winery producer in Canada, “ explains chief executive officer Tony Stewart.


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Three years ago, the family purchased the historic Madrone Vineyards Estate in the Sonoma Valley of California, which produces Valley of the Moon wines, and Lake Sonoma Winery, and renovated the hospitality side of things, returning to the original name from a century ago, Madrone Vineyards Estate Wines.


Renovations have also been underway in the ancient cellar and the production facility has been modernized, with a larger tank room. A second smaller winery has been added for the new Madrone Wines— small lot wines with a premium label. The Valley of the Moon wines are entry-level, value-priced wines. Lake Sonoma wines will be sold through a wine shop in the town of Sonoma.


Today, the high-ceilinged, bright tasting room showcases its old stonework and nooks and crannies, overlaid with a rustic, but modern style, combining the 1863 foundation with a comfortable elegance. The Stewart family’s Okanagan operation also features a combination of the historic 1873 Allison homestead, re-purposed first as the tasting room and now used for special events, and a modern, open-beamed restaurant and tasting room overlooking Okanagan Lake. While the family’s local winery was founded by Tony’s father, Dick Stewart in 1961, and remains in the family today, Madrone Vineyards dates back to the


JUDIE STEEVES


Emigdio Diaz, one of the production crew at Madrone Vineyards, does a pumpover of the fermenting Cabernet.


1800s, and boasts a chequered history.


That includes virtual abandonment of the vineyards during prohibition in the 1920s, as well as ownership by such well- known names as Senator George Hearst in the late 1800s, the legendary Parducci family from 1956 to 1997 and the Korbel wine empire, from whom the Stewarts bought the property. It includes 42 acres of vineyard, of which 25 are slated for re- planting in the coming years, notes Stewart. While there are some similarities in grape growing and winemaking between the two countries, there are many differences, he says.


Not surprisingly, regulation is one facet of the business that is quite different in the two jurisdictions.


“In the U.S. the industry is over-regulated, with both federal and state governments having authority. Compliance is a real issue, with two licences required . . . you can’t move without involving lawyers,” he comments in frustration. Stewart admits he is considering joining a winery association and becoming active now that the renovations are complete. As well, he says every label must be approved before printing in the U.S., a move he says he can see the need for now in B.C. as well.


JUDIE STEEVES


Quails’ Gate chief executive officer Tony Stewart.


While Quails’ Gate has the capacity to handle 1,200 tons of grapes, the California winery has a capacity of 2,500 tons, so the larger winery is the one south of the border.


However, the milieu each operates in is quite different, with British Columbia FRUIT GROWER • Winter 2015-16 15


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