percent is used tomake wine. All product lines are sold under the Coastal Black label to leverage brand recognition in the localmarket. “Quality Foods is our biggest single


supporter, but we also have product in Superstore and a lot of the small Island independent chains,” says O’Brennan. “With fresh-market blueberries, the Fraser Valley is into themarket 10 days to two weeks earlier than we are because they are just thatmuch warmer.” Despite the growing season


disadvantage and the volume of produce being shipped fromthe mainland, O’Brennan still sees opportunity for Vancouver Island producers to get into themarket. “Most everything that’s produced in


the Fraser Valley could be grown here,” he says. “It’s a delicate balance for Island


growers. If you grow beyond what Vancouver Island is going to consume, it’s really costly to ship stuff off the Island, but at the same time, 20 per cent of the population lives here on Vancouver Island and people are fiercely loyal to Island product.” While local consumers are


accustomed to paying a reasonable price for blueberries and raspberries, fresh-market blackberries are a harder sell. “Itmakes for a struggle. People don’t


want to pay for what they can pick on the side of the road for free,” O’Brennan explains. “We are debating cutting back on


blackberry production a bit. It’s a struggle to get themto survive through spring, but ourmost popular wines are blackberry-based wines.” The winery is where Abel’s true


passion and entrepreneurship shine. Coastal Black EstateWinery opened its tasting roomand released its first wine in August 2010. Theymake 10 different products,


three table wines, two sparkling, two dessert-style wines and three fermentedmeads (honey wine). In three years their wines have earned 25 national and international competition medals. Instead of starting small, theymade


the up-front investment in the kind of infrastructure and equipment needed to be a player in the fruit wine industry in both local and exportmarkets. This November, O’Brennan will take his products to theHong KongWine and Spirits Fair, amajor gateway to the Asianmarket.


TAMARA LEIGH


Abel O’Brennan with 2,300-litre Italian fruit press at Coastal Black, whose winery released its first products in 2010 and will produce 40,000 litres this year, less than half of its capacity.


“We willmake 40,000 litres of wine


this year, but we have the capacity to do 95,000. There is lots of roomfor growth for us,” he says, adding that every part of the process ismanaged on-farm– harvesting, freezing the fruit, pressing, fermenting, aging and bottling. The winery has also set the stage for


additional agri-tourismopportunities including a seasonal bistro, wood-fired pizza oven, and special event venue. They are also building a reputation for seasonal attractions like the Fall Pumpkin Festival. This Christmas season, there are


plans to transformtheir freezer facilities into a winter wonderland. By the end of 2013, O’Brennan estimates they will host 15-18,000 visitors to the tasting room, events and tours. “It’s important in any industry to


look at ways to add value. I’ma great fan of agri-tourismbecause it creates


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an environment where people can learnmore about the food they eat and where it comes from,” he says. “Any time you can open up your


farmand show people what you do, the rewards are awesome.” The diversity and scope of the


Coastal Black enterprise would be daunting for anyone, but O’Brennan thrives on the challenge and nuance of learning and refining each of the pieces. “I love the variety of what I do. I love


the intensity of pressing and fermenting for three weeks straight with the wine when I’mgoing for it. I love harvest, I love the staff in the summer,” he says. “The biggest thing I enjoy in what


I’mdoing is the time it affordsme with my family. It’s crazy long workdays, but it’s nice to be able to have breakfast, lunch and dinner withmy wife and kids.”


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