Between the Vines To UBCO from Bordeaux
Province’s first university enology programset up by French associate prof. By Judie Steeves
I
t’s probably the smallest winery in B.C.— all grape crushing is literally done by hand. But the goal is not necessarily to make the best wine in the province, but to learn more about the different factors influencing wine quality.
The first batch to be made at the UBCO campus in Kelowna was last year, when 72 half-bottles were made by associate professor Cedric Saucier and his staff at the new enology lab in the brand new Fipke Building. More is currently fermenting in the lab this year, clearly illustrating the differences in colour that come from using more or less nitrogen to fertilize the grape vines during the season. Using as little water and fertilizer as possible to grow the grapes results in the best quality wines—quite contrary to growing most other crops. Saucier moved to the Okanagan from a post at the University of Bordeaux in France, where he was conducting research into the grape tannins which give wine its colour and taste, and teaching enology. The move here in 2009 was an opportunity for him to develop some international experience; to go to a new wine region and see how he could help it develop. It was the reputation of UBC that brought him here and the fact that the Okanagan campus was in a wine region, he says.
Saucier also had the opportunity to start and equip his own wine laboratory, as the Fipke Building was under construction at the time. He has now begun the first enology program at a university in B.C.
About a third of his time is spent on research, another third teaching and a third on administration, as he is currently acting head of chemistry. The research is funded in part by the B.C. Wine Grape Council and in part by the federal agriculture ministry. It includes research into the phenolic
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JUDIE STEEVES
Cedric Saucier at work with the carboys in his mini-winery at the University of B.C.-Okanagan.
compounds in grapes and wine; the physical and chemical evolution of wines during aging and the influence of oak; the interaction of phenolic compounds with other taste or aroma active substances such as proteins or pyrazines; and ripening markers and interactions with Botrytis cinerea. Growers are interested in the identification of phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity, Saucier explains. The balance of sugar and acid is critical, he adds.
As well, technology that will allow better evaluation and management of the polyphenol content of wines can lead to an increase in both the nutritional and sensory qualities of the wines, and thus their value.
In the Okanagan, he says, the grapes generally have good sugars.
But, it’s a matter of determining a winemaker’s style, with soil, climate and ripeness all playing a role in carrying out that style. All of them vary in the different micro-climates and soil regions of the valley.
Taking measurements at harvest time to better define the qualities of the grape help to determine the style of the wine, but a longer maceration period and other measures play a role as well.
At present, though, there is no really accurate measure for use in the field. Saucier is hopeful he can find some new tools to help growers and winemakers, using some of the molecular markers he is working to identify.
“It might be a marker of phenolic or aromatic ripeness. But it’s critical,
British Columbia FRUIT GROWER • Winter 2011-12
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