dot the rock-scape and we almost lose track of time. Forty-five minutes after our descent, we slowly make our way back to the anchor line and to Dwight’s Zodiac. Weather dictates our every move and we
feel lucky to get out for a few more dives only a couple hours before our adventure comes to an end. But the best seems always to be saved for last. Dwight helps us find the border of the kelp forest and we are not disappointed. Indeed, the diving becomes a bit more challenging as we have long passed slack tide and the river water is rushing out of the estuary. We hold onto the anchor line and use it to pull ourselves below the strong surface current to depths where life relaxes and the kelp gently sways. Here bleached baby seastar with six limbs cling to the fronds and lion’s mane jellyfish pulse hypnotically to the ‘beat’ of the ocean. The song of the beluga is all around but the visibility asserts auditory appreciation only. Out in the Bay it is appreciably colder, but we cannot help but become distracted by opportunities to photograph this environment. Uli moves about the floor at a snail’s pace, from rock to rock, making an extraordinary number of unique hand signals that either bring me into the frame or send me far, far out of it. I would say that it takes a special patience to dive with such a person, but it is fascinating to watch him manipulate the camera equipment and do all the things that take up all of my time (gauge check, compass check, time check, repeat). And all too quickly it is time to ascend. We haven’t been more than 50 feet (15m) but still we take our time. We are not cold, and we know that this is our last dive of the trip. It was worth all the effort and every dollar.
Packing up the gear takes time but it’s made easier by Dwight’s excellent facility on the beach: a small hut with changing rooms and ample space to spread out, freshwater tanks for cleaning off the salt, drying racks that, sadly, will not be used this time. We pack our wet gear into our duffle bags, double check that it’s all there, load it onto the small bus and drive to the train station. VIA rail runs a line from Winnipeg to Churchill and we are just as eager to board the train as we were to jump in the water. Our gear safely stowed in the luggage car, we climb on board and settle into the 50-hour slow crawl through some of the most beautiful (and flat) Canadian wilderness that we have seen to date.
If You Go
Polar Inn standard double room (beluga season) $155 per night with an excellent breakfast included
Kayaking (3 hours): $160 per person Snorkelling (3 hours):
$195 per person (wet suit included) Zodiac charter:
$325 per hour (2 hour minimum)
VIA rail train ticket round trip from Winnipeg: $340 (economy seat)
www.divermag.com 47
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