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RIVER CRUISING


Shiva terracotta temple, Klnas


In the haze of dawn mists, there was often no line where sky met the flat water. Then, as the sun rose, the 3km-wide river revealed fringes of self-seeded plantations of snow-white pampas grass, edging sand- bars, islands and lagoons that stretched to huge horizons.


When closer to shore, we could see the banana groves, sugar cane, rice paddies, maize and banana crops. We would pass villages with painted temples amongst fruit-bearing trees like mango and custard apples, with wigwams of drying jute poles. Occasional pop-pop craft, paddle and sail- boats were piled high with traps and nets. In the wilderness, antelope could be seen feeding. Cranes flew overhead as our pilot confidently swung our vessel through an array of channels that varied from expansive to positively skinny. He had worked the Ganges as a child with his fa- ther, and could now read the speedy swirls of currents, whether deep or shallow. The city sights of Patna, with its thrumming streets and deranged dins of honking traffic, were fast fading. There, we had seen the huge granary built by Warren Hastings, the first British Governor of Bengal in 1786 to house grain after a famine. The Patna Museum, built by the Raj in 1928, displayed exquisite sculptures of Gods to Moghul art, with archaeological finds from the Mauryan period (300BC to the 1st Century AD) relating to the ‘enlightened’ Emperor Ashoka, who turned the wealth and zeal of his huge empire – including Afghanistan – to the gentle teachings of Buddha.


Pakistan Delhi Kathmandu Nepal Bhutan


Sukapha moored up at the Farakka Barrage


Sukapha had the CLASSIC LOOKS of a riverboat of yesteryear yet with


ALL THE MOD CONS you would expect from being only six years old, including the essential of air-conditioning.


China


Patna Sarnath Varanasi


Ganges Monghyr


Farakka Bhagalpur


Murshidabad Hugli


Kolkata Kalna


India  Winter 2012-13 I WORLD OF CRUISING 73 Bay of Bengal Myanmar


Bangladesh


Peter Matthews Photo Library


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