Squeezing into this tight passage was worth it. I found a number of cave symbols here.


Cave Hunting “I really hate this cave,” my guide, Gustavo, says. “Oh,” I say. “What’s so bad about it?” “Deep mud and very small,” he answers. We’re standing at the mouth of a cave in


northern Spain. It’s a dark slit in the hillside. Long before this country was called Spain, people lived on this land. T ey settled here almost 40,000 years ago. We know they were here from the evidence


they leſt behind. T ere are sites scattered across Europe where archeologists have found stone tools and animal bones. T ere are burial grounds. And of course, there are caves. Many caves in this region were decorated with engravings and paintings. In many ways, this art was these peoples’ greatest legacy. It gives us clues about their culture and beliefs.


I want a glimpse into this world. I follow


Gustavo into the cave. T e chamber is about 6 meters wide. T e fl oor is muddy, but I’ve seen worse. Maybe this isn’t going to be so bad. As I scan the solid gray walls, my eyes are


drawn to a small, low opening at the back wall. It doesn’t even quite come up to my knees. “Gustavo, is this where we’re going?” I ask. “Yes,” he answers. “Much of the cave is like that. T is is why I hate it.” Oh.... I think things are about to become more diffi cult. Gustavo leads the way by backing into the


opening, lowering his legs into the tight space. He wriggles downward. My eyes follow his light. He soon disappears. Aſt er a few minutes, he calls up to let me know he’s at the bottom. Now it’s my turn.


Genevieve Von Petzinger is a paleoanthropologist. She studies the origins of our human ancestors using fossils and other remains.


18 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPLORER 18


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