LIFESTYLE DINING
A UNIQUE
STEAKHOUSE burwell’s stone fire grill caters to foodies BY ROBIN HOWARD | PHOTOGRAPHY BY HOLGER OBENAUS
138 CSD
Four years ago Burwell’s Stone Fire Grill quietly opened on Market Street. Though it’s done little advertising, its unusual approach combined with a reputation for remarkable food and flawless service has made it one of the most highly reviewed restaurants in Charleston. Burwell’s Stone Fire Grill bills itself as a “modern” steakhouse, a term that has stirred some controversy in the industry. The concept is to evolve away from the typical dim, leather-clad clubs that serve oversized portions followed by bourbon and more bourbon. Instead, contemporary steakhous- es are catering more to women, and a more health-conscious and ecologically minded demographic at large. Foodies, if you will. My husband and I are the perfect demo- graphic targets. We don’t diet, but we do prefer smaller portions; we’re not vegetar- ians, but we only eat meat if it’s ethically sourced; and we go out for dinner regularly so we appreciate small plates and affordable entrees. We also revere the cocktail hour and consider Charleston’s creative bartend- ers to be national treasures.
The first thing we notice is that Burwell’s ambience has authentic Charleston flair with a perfect balance of masculine and femi- nine elegance. The building is a marriage between an 1897 Charleston Single House and a 1950s-era block building. Exposed beams, polished concrete, reclaimed wood and glowing Edison bulbs give this eclectic space a contemporary feel, while a two-story chandelier, sparkling tile and velvet accents keep the space from feeling too industrial. We start at the rooftop bar where we sip a
crisp, refreshing cocktail called Spring Fever while feeling sorry for the sweltering tourists below on Market Street who don’t know about this secret little nest. The bar down- stairs is packed, as usual, which is one of the reasons the restaurant is a local favorite. It’s worth mentioning that the restaurant snagged Charleston’s beloved Joe Joe Fahey, after the Speakeasy fire, as well as the talented Katie Meuli. These are the kind of bartenders who will ask you how your week is going or what you’re having for dinner then disappear to “make you some- thing.” My Spring Fever is a combination of Reyka vodka, elderflower liqueur, lemon and freshly juiced strawberry and cucumber. It’s perfect.
At last we’re ready for our table and ready to experience the artistry of Burwell’s award- winning culinary team. From the executive chef to the passionate service profession- als, Burwell’s culture finds and keeps those focused on contemporary food. In fact, they are shaking up the traditional steakhouse menu.
Our server, Kathy, helps us choose dishes
to share and doesn’t hesitate to recommend two perfect wine pairings. Our first dish is one of the restaurant’s signatures: a small plate of Korean BBQ pork belly with grilled scallions, kimchi and local shrimp. The pork is tender, tangy and nicely complemented by nutty sesame seeds and scallion puree. Next is a lettuce salad from Sweet Bay
Farms in Huger, South Carolina. The lettuce is just-out-of-the-earth fresh with creamy dollops of goat cheese, juicy blackberries and crunchy macadamia nuts. The balance,
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