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Near the Arctic Circle. smiling at the camera. We’d peeled our-


selves from our frozen machines and savored the sensation of warm blood slowly rekindling the feeling in our painfully numb extremities. Over the next few days, things got


tougher. Heavy snow made visibility poor. Changing gears became a battle, as numb feet clumsily tried to snag the gearshift. Insulated Gore-Tex gloves and heated jack- ets and grips were having little effect on my painfully numb hands and fingers. The slow driving on slippery roads required more attention than we had available, and the stabbing cold made concentrating diffi- cult. My thoughts wondered off, until I thought of Lisa. How was she? How much further could she go?


A Harsh Reality As the harsh reality of our adventure took root, we caught our first glimpse of the kind of stamina and sheer miserable determina- tion we would need to face this trip. As the cold sapped our strength, we were forced to stop every 40 minutes, peel ourselves off the bikes and draw warmth from Tinker- belle’s scalding cylinder heads. The town of


The obligatory photo at Norkap.


Hammerfest couldn’t come soon enough. By the time we’d ridden to Nordkapp, the


northern most point in Europe, we’d ridden in -15˚F temperatures, broken icicles from the bikes, and been stunned by the harsh, unquestionable beauty of this country. We


heroically displayed our, “I’ve been to Ham- merfest, the most Northerly town in the World” sticker.


Serenity We sought sanctuary in Finland at Inari


February 2017 BMW OWNERS NEWS 51


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