is often too expensive due to the cost of natural gas and the significant amount of labor needed, especially for equine operations. Tis disposal method is more appropriate for small animals. Furthermore, open-air burning of deceased animals is not recommended because of the odor and potential air pollutants. Maryland has a ban on open-air burning from June 1 to September 1 of each year for most counties. Cremation is the same as incineration; but,


the ashes of the animal are returned to the equine owner. Tis disposal option allows for the owner to retain a physical part of their ani- mal and can be expensive. If a necropsy has been performed at a Mary- land Animal Health Lab, cremation is usually available. Some laboratories will cremate a de- ceased equine for a fee levied on a per-weight basis. Tere are also a variety of private pet crema-


tories that provide services for equines, many of which offer pick-up services. Fees will vary depending on location within the state and services requested.


Burial


Burial regulations differ throughout the State due to varying soil types. An equine cannot be buried in a wetland, floodplain, shoreline, high water table area or near a well. Check with local ordinances that may restrict or limit burial. Due to the strict guidelines and regulations


surrounding equine burial, it may be easiest to utilize the services of a private company to bury a deceased equine. Private companies that provide off-site burial services are relatively limited in the Maryland area, however. If you wish to bury on your own property and doing so is allowed, bury the equine at a minimum depth of six feet, liming over the carcass (for pathogen reduction) before back- filling with three feet of soil. An equine must be buried so that it will not contaminate or allow leachable discharge into waterways. It is important that domestic animals and wildlife not be able to access the carcass. It may be necessary to hire a service or rent


equipment to dig a hole large and deep enough for equine burial. Te cost of burial will depend on the location and availability of equipment and operators.


Necropsy and Disposal Equine owners in Maryland can send equine


carcasses to a Maryland Department of Agri- culture Animal Health Lab to have a necropsy conducted. Te lab will arrange for the disposal of the body. Animal carcasses cannot be returned follow- ing a necropsy. For an additional charge how- ever, an equine can be cremated and the ashes returned to the owner from the Frederick An- imal Health Lab.


www.equiery.com | 800-244-9580


Composting: An Environmentally-Friendly Method of Deceased Equine Disposal By Olivia Wood, Equiery intern


When dealing with the loss of a beloved


horse, it can be difficult to think about the logistics of properly disposing of a horse carcass. Figuring out the right option can be stressful and time consuming, especially if you live in an area with limited access to transport or cremation services. Te less traditional method of composting an equine carcass may be an option for you depending on your county’s regulations and how much space you have on your property. Some larger farms in Maryland are beginning to offer composting options for horse owners who do not want to compost on their own properties. While composting might not be the most


conventional method of carcass disposal, when done properly, it can serve as an environmen- tally-friendly and low-cost option, making it a worthy method to consider. By composting, you are helping to facilitate an environmental- ly-sound method of breaking down the horse carcass while simultaneously creating a com- post that can eventually be repurposed.


Breaking it Down: How to Compost


MATERIALS At first thought, the notion of composting an entire horse carcass may seem daunting. After all, composting is somewhat of a sci- ence. But, like any proper science project, it all starts with obtaining the right materials. Tere are four key materials needed for prop-


er composting: coarse carbon material; clean, dry wood shavings; manure mixture and, per- haps most importantly, a horse carcass. Te coarse carbon material serves as the base of the compost pile. Such a material could be playground wood chips or chopped corn stalks. Tis material will provide the ideal amount of airflow to the microbes that break down the horse carcass. Te wood shavings simply soak up fluid


from the carcass as it is composted. Te manure mixture serves several key pur-


poses: increasing biological activity, maintain- ing moisture, keeping curious wildlife away from the compost, and, ironically, controlling odor. An ideal manure mixture for compost- ing purposes is two parts horse stall waste to one part cattle manure. Take care to ensure that the moisture level in the manure mixture is ideal. It should be just moist enough that it can be molded into a ball, but not so wet that excess liquid drips from it. Te horse carcass itself provides the nitrogen that is vital to the composting process. Make sure you remove any non-compostable objects from the horse carcass before composting such as horse shoes. Once you have these four key components,


you’re ready to begin composting.


METHODS Before starting, choose a proper site for con-


structing the compost pile. Tis site should be in a high, dry area that will not collect water and at least 200 feet from wells or any other sources of water. Te area on which the com- post pile will be constructed should be easily accessible and solid enough to allow for the maneuvering of equipment. Also consider general wind direction in your area and take care to place the pile out of the line of sight of neighbors and motorists. With a proper location chosen, you are ready to begin composting. Essentially, this process is simply combining different materials with specific properties in the correct proportions. Te first step is constructing the carbon


base. Using your selected coarse carbon mate- rial to create a thick base layer, about 18 to 24 inches deep. Te overall size of the layer de- pends on the size of the carcass, but it might be anywhere from 14 to 18 feet long and 12 to 15 feet wide. Regardless, on all sides of the carcass, there should be 18 to 24 inches be- tween the edges of the carcass and the edges of the carbon base. Next, spread clean, dry wood shavings over


the carbon base, three to four inches deep. Keep the shavings toward the center of the pile; this is where you will later lay the carcass. Following the dry wood shavings, add a little bit of the manure mixture–just one to two inches to help aid the breakdown process from below the carcass. With the base fully constructed, it is time to


gently lay the carcass out flat on top. As long as there are 18 to 24 inches of space around all sides of the carcass, it does not matter what direction the carcass is facing. Finally, complete the composting pile by


covering the carcass with 18 to 24 inches of manure mixture. Try to create a domed peak, as this shape will help the compost pile shed rainwater. Use a probe and measuring tool to ensure the manure layer is deep enough. Once finished, the compost pile should be between five and seven feet tall.


MANAGEMENT Once the compost pile is constructed, the


hard work is done. Now, you just have to make sure the compost pile does its job. Doing so means filling cracks and depressions in the pile, monitoring the pile temperature, and turning the compost pile. Within one week of construction, depres-


sions and cracks will form in the peak of the pile as the carcass collapses. To avoid letting


continued... THE EQUIERY YOUR MARYLAND HORSE COUNCIL PUBLICATION | APRIL 2021 | 33


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