per cent of all grapes produced on the bench are reds.


One Faith Vineyard proprietor Bill Lui, who released B.C.’s most expensive wine (at $165 per bottle) last year is using grapes from small blocks in Sundial Vineyard. “I have total faith in Dick’s judgement. He also calls a spade a spade and is known for his independence,” McWatters said. He recalled that when Cleave was asked why he had chosen the varieties to plant at Sundial, he had replied, “Someone from the government told me they wouldn’t grow here and I wanted to prove him wrong. In 1996, Cleave sold his original 14- acres and bought land nearby where he established his own seven-acre vineyard, Phantom Creek.


Dedicated to producing the grapes needed to make single-vineyard wines of the highest quality, Cleave reduces the yields to intensify the flavour, character and sugar content of the grapes.


“Ninety-five per cent of wine is made in the vineyard,” Cleave said.


“Dick has no patience with people who don’t take care of their vineyards, especially over-cropping,” McWatters said.


Phantom Creek Vineyard was named one of the Top 10 Single Vineyards Around the World by Wine Access magazine in 2009.


Noted winemaker Howard Soon oversees the production of wine from Phantom Creek grapes, which are sold through Sandhill Estate’s Small Lots Program.


The recent increase in acreage under vine is due to experienced orchardists converting their land to vineyards and novice growers establishing vineyards. In Cleave’s opinion, growers of high- density apples have an advantage because of the similarities required for success.


For example, both crops require careful management of the canopy to ensure an optimum amount of light reaches the fruit.


“I’d like to see some orchards came back. Mono cultures are not a good idea,” Cleave said.


Based on having grown 30 different


commodities in the valley, Cleave said grapes are the easiest.


“It boils down to getting the right


clone, right variety, right rootstock and right site,” he said. The most important challenges facing


grape production are urban demands on water, extremes in weather due to global warming and labour shortages according to Cleave.


“I can honestly say the seasonal Mexican worker program has been the saviour of the industry. The Mexicans are such good workers that even with the cost of providing them with housing, airfare and medical care we come out ahead,” he said.


Cleave sees a bright future for B.C. wines as long as the quality is high. “We must keep improving quality— new research, new techniques—and we must not forget our competitors are trying to do the same thing,” he said. He recommends making the VQA requirements stricter.


“I never thought of it as work. It was a blessing,” Cleave said, reflecting on his career.


8


British Columbia FRUIT GROWER • Spring 2015


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