In The Vineyard


Remedial viticulture


Here are some suggestions for soil treatment and vine vigour control to deal with problemplantings.


By Gary Strachan E


ither by accident or circumstance, things sometimes don’t happen the way we would like.


For example, think about the situation in which the vineyard you’re operating never seems to perform up to the standard of neighbouring properties—similar soils, same varieties, but the neighbour has healthy vines and you have wimpy vines.


GARY STRACHAN


These vineyards are both Pinot gris, and in their fifth leaf. The top one is on sandy loam with gravel sub soil and will have a full crop this year. The other (smaller trunks) is on a hard-packed, silty gravel that wasn't deep ripped prior to planting and has not yet reached full


Look for something you can’t see. What could be affecting water and nutrient uptake via the roots? In clay or silty soils it could have been something unexpected, such as the way the vines were planted. Fine soils can be beneficial because they have a high retention of water and minerals but they can be a barrier to root development if the boundary of the planting site was polished by augering a hole during planting or if a water drill was used for planting.


Fine soils are compacted more readily over time and 28


create a barrier to root penetration. Compaction should have been pierced by deep ripping prior to planting. A large planting hole backfilled with sand and peat moss gives the new plants a head start before the roots have to cope with penetrating the surrounding clay barrier or compaction zone.


Obviously, the best answer would have been to avoid planting a vineyard in silt or clay, but the reality is that it happens and what can you do about it? Look for a way to penetrate the barrier. A mulch of compost inoculated with mycorrhizae won’t give overnight results but it will assist the long term expansion of the feeding zone for roots. It may


British Columbia FRUIT GROWER • Summer 2014


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