There are plenty of colourful options for wet garden areas, such as bee balm (top left) and astilbe (top right).


Rain, rain, don’t go away! D


Rain gardens are a great way to protect the environment and showcase native plants By Tania Moffat


elicate white flowers provide a beautiful contrast to the rich green leaves of the nannyberry.


Fuchsia-coloured buds are beginning to form on the dwarf Joe Pye weed, and deep pink spikes of astilbe complement the violet-blue flowers of the bee balm nearby. Marsh marigolds and milk- weed provide a burst of yellow and pink against white lobelia flowers dangling over the raised garden border. To the ordinary eye it’s just another pretty garden, but this garden is far from ordi- nary. Planted in a shallow depression, the


garden has been carefully located to absorb excess storm water. Here, nutri- ents can be absorbed by native plants, and excess water is prevented from over- flowing storm drains and sewer systems. In addition to redirecting water runoff from the street, the garden prevents contaminants such as road salts, fertil- izers, and oils from polluting our water system, streams, rivers and lakes. This is a rain garden; a beautiful and simple garden that helps to protect our envi- ronment. While rain gardens may seem like a


new approach for dealing with drainage issues, bio-retention systems occur natu- rally in nature. Unfortunately, many of our natural forming wetlands and wet meadows are being destroyed by grow- ing agricultural and urban development. “Rain gardens are a great way to mini-


mize the negative impact homeowners and commercial properties have on our


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your rain garden spot This can be near the discharge of a downspout, but to prevent moisture problems from devel- oping gardens need to be located at least 13 feet from homes and septic beds. “It is important to consider the


Native ferns stay green if there is enough moisture.


environment”, says Chris Maxemuck. He installed a rain garden at his garden- ing centre in Lorette, Manitoba three years ago. “It has been a learning experi- ence”, says the owner of C & S Country Gardens. Since then he has been shar- ing his knowledge and experience with customers and fellow gardeners. Finding the right location is critical to success.


Sun or shade; it makes little differ-


ence to a rain garden; its main require- ment is to be located where it collects the most water run-off. Observe where water drains naturally in your yard. If it’s absorbed and does not pool for long periods of time, you may have found


volume of the rain garden in relation to how much runoff water will flow into it,” Maxemuck cautions. Rain gardens should only hold storm water for a maximum of two days; they are not ponds designed to collect and hold water. “If water stands longer than two days you may need to make the garden larger or amend the soil. Soil is critical; it must have good drainage properties and high organic matter.” Maxemuck recommends using peat moss or cocoa fibre to create a well aerated, porous soil with good water retention properties to help plants survive periods of drought. Clay-based soils offer poor drainage creating pond-like conditions. While C&S Gardens decided not


to mulch


their garden, they recommend consider- ing a coco mulch to suppress weeds and to help prevent moisture loss. Slope is another factor to consider


when placing your garden. If the slope is too steep, erosion on the low lying side of the garden will occur; if the loca- tion is too low, you will have standing water and create a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Rain gardens also need to be levelled out; this can be achieved by creating a depression on the high side of the garden and a berm on the lower side. Information on how to determine


Early Spring 2014 • 23


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