Dig a hole with a pencil, then pop in the seedling transplants.


these bulbs – tulips and daffodils, for example – require a cold period in order to bloom, so you must plant them in fall. If you try keeping them, unplanted, over winter they will turn to mush. Some bulbs or bulb-like plants should be planted in springtime and will bloom the same year. Tender bulbs and corms should be planted in spring and then dug up and stored in fall to protect them from really cold weather. This would include gladi- olas, dahlias, canna and so on. You need to consult zone hardiness to be sure which ones can be left in over winter where you live.


bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes? These are all root systems of different shapes that store food to sustain the plant the following year. The main thing you need to know is which end goes up when you plant them, al- though even if you plant them upside down, chances are their sprouts will fight their way toward the light. Look for root buds on corms and plant that side down. In larger corms there may be a concave and a convex side. The concave (hollowed inward) side faces upwards. With bulbs, the pointy side goes up. Rhizomes and tubers go on their sides just below the surface of the soil.


So what is the difference between


ones for shade and which for sun? This is one bit of information that is actually car- ried on seed and plant tags. Know that “full sun” can also be misleading as some plants that we buy here are raised in places such as Detroit where the sun is filtered by pollu- tion, so be careful, especially with expensive and tender container pots. Ease them into the sun a little at a time. The other tricky part is knowing what is meant by “part sun” or “part shade”. Generally, either one will mean dappled shade of the kind you get with sparse tree cover or morning sun with afternoon shade. Full shade (north side of the house by a wall) is very difficult to grow anything in. Best put river stone there.


Knowing where to plant – which


Roots of seedlings look delicate but they are tougher than you’d think.


Vegetables and herbs to start from seed indoors


Most vegetables can be planted as seed


right into the garden. The short list be- low are the exceptions. • Eggplant • Melon • Peppers • Tomatoes


How much does the kind of soil matter? Unless you are trying to grow some


very special acid-loving plants, such as aza- leas or blueberries, in clay soil, the soil type just doesn’t matter much for the novice gar- dener. Shade plants like soil that is a little higher in acidity but if you are planting in a woodland area (under trees or shrubs) in your garden, chances are the soil will already be in that condition from leaf drop. What matters more is moisture and drainage. Some


Annuals to sow directly in the ground This is a short list of some of the annual seeds you can sow out directly once all


danger of frost has passed. Annuals are plants that live only one year and regenerate themselves from seed. Many of the plants listed below will self-sow if left to go to seed or can even be planted in the fall.


• Alyssum • Asters


• Bachelor buttons • Calendula


(annual types) • Campanula • Cobea (vine)


20 • Spring 2012


• Cosmos • California poppies • Forget-me-not • Lavatera


• Love-in-a-mist • Marigolds • Matthiola


• Morning glory (vine) • Nasturtiums • Nicotiana • Pansies


• Snapdragons • Sunflower


• Sweet peas (vine) • Zinnia


www.localgardener.net


• Celosia • Coleus


• Dusty miller • Fuschia • Geraniums • Impatiens • Lisianthus • Lobelia


• Nierembergia • Petunias • Peppers • Salvia


• Swan River Daisy • Verbena


Annuals to start indoors or in a greenhouse


Some annuals, especially those origi-


nating in tropical climates, require longer to mature – or they may even be perennial in their native home but won’t survive our winters so are grown here as annuals. They need to be started about six weeks prior to planting out, but check the seed packet for specific in- structions because maturity times vary. Below is a short list for your guidance.


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