FEATURED ROUTES


PHOTO // MIKE BAETZ ROUTE BETA


FA: John Turner, Bri- an Rothery, and Wilfried Twelker in 1959.


GRADE: 5.8+


ROUTE: A 500+ foot traditional climb with five pitches of stellar Adirondack rock, the first and fourth pitches being the gems.


INFO: The best resource for climbers is the Adirondack Rock guide book by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Hass


SEPTEMBER| OCTOBER 2011 G


AMESMANSHIP is likely Poke-O-Moonshine’s busiest climb and for


good reason too! First climbed by the legendary John Turner and his partners Brian Rothery and Wil- fried Twelker in 1957, the route has turned into an instant classic and is sought after by many visiting climb- ers. While the grade is only 5.8+, be prepared for a demanding start with


a sustained and strenuous first pitch that offers a little bit of everything from fist jams to off-width. Pitch two is still good but not as good as the first pitch. Continue climbing up the left facing corner system


making your way to the belay ledge. Pitch three climbs through some broken rock and trends right and up toward your belay on a pine tree. Pitch four is another jewel that climbs an amazing 80 feet of 5.7+ handcracking to easier ground. Pitch five finishes things off with easy but runout slab to the trees above.


Getting down from the top, make your way down and to the right to trees below, looking for the slung tree to rap from. Two 60 meter ropes will get you to the bottom with three rappels.


NEW YORK, ADIRONDACKS // GAMESMANSHIP (5.8+)


climber MAGAZINEism |


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